City, American Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: “A nice, laid-back American buzz” has helped win a loyal following over the years for this small chain of Kansas City-style diners: one of the first in London to bring BBQ indoors. “It’s a fun place” (in the right mood) and the food is “decent” and in man-sized portions, but “not particularly special”.

“Plenty of yummy breakfast options” win praise for this “extremely well done” brunch specialist which launched 19 years ago in Soho and now has 13 self-described ‘cafés’, 10 of them around the capital, and another four bars and pubs. The fry-ups, pancakes and other comfort-food delights can be accompanied by cocktails if you fancy pushing the boat out early with a Breakfast Mai Tai. Any complaints? – “just the incredibly annoying queues”.

2023 Review: “US-style dive bar” in Shoreditch “serving what may well be the finest bar-meal/hangover-cure in London – beef chili in a hollowed-out brioche bun, topped with cheese and your choice of chili sauce in varying levels of insanity”. Tim Brice, aka ‘Captain Chili’, took over the former site of Rok (RIP) to open his little corner of Americana in February 2021. Apparently the Cincinatti chilibomb was developed by Greek immigrants who adapted Tex-Mex chili con carne in the 1920s.

“Plenty of yummy breakfast options” win praise for this “extremely well done” brunch specialist which launched 19 years ago in Soho and now has 13 self-described ‘cafés’, 10 of them around the capital, and another four bars and pubs. The fry-ups, pancakes and other comfort-food delights can be accompanied by cocktails if you fancy pushing the boat out early with a Breakfast Mai Tai. Any complaints? – “just the incredibly annoying queues”.

2021 Review: “A nice, laid-back American buzz” has helped win a loyal following over the years for this small chain of Kansas City-style diners: one of the first in London to bring BBQ indoors. “It’s a fun place” (in the right mood) and the food is “decent” and in man-sized portions, but “not particularly special”.

This stunning Covent Garden mansion (once a high-class brothel) is named for the son of one of Thatcher’s cabinet ministers, who launched it in its current guise as a grand American restaurant; and for about a decade it was the height of fashion. It retains a “great atmosphere” – and also, something of a following for business, brunch and its martini bar. But, given its location and dramatic interior, it attracts remarkably little feedback these days.

The “Manhattan-esque atmosphere” is the perennial attraction of this Theatreland favourite (sibling to a famous NYC brasserie near Times Square), which retains the retro charm of a 1970s period piece, even though it was completely rebuilt on a new site just around the corner from the original one just four years ago. “Despite the luvvie buzz, the American food is decidedly second rate (though the off-menu burger is fine)”. “Prices are not unreasonable for the location”, however, and “the youthful staff do their best”.

“Like being in an old fashioned Parisian brasserie”, this big venue, “centrally located by Covent Garden Piazza”, provides a “hectic but impressive” backdrop to a meal. Many reporters feel “it has a whole lot going for it”, but even they often acknowledge either “seriously poor” cooking, or the trade-offs that a visit entails: “Yes it’s on the pricey side and the food is average really, but it’s still a tradition that we enjoy.”

The 2021 opening of a London branch of New York’s hip NoMad hotel brought a “wonderful transformation” of Covent Garden’s Bow Street Magistrates’ Court “into a bright, airy venue with lots of choice” for eating and drinking. Its “fab main dining room”, ‘The Atrium’, is a three-storey-high glass-ceilinged space with an extra-glam atmosphere, although “sometimes the food doesn’t match the setting”, being merely “OK, but no more than that”. The appointment of Lancashire-born chef Michael Yates, formerly of Northcote and Holland’s famous Oud Sluis, may lift its game.

Despite a fine NYC pedigree; a selection of top-quality imported USDA steaks; and a ‘prestige’ location, at the foot of the Adelphi (just off the Strand), this US steakhouse has never made waves in the capital. When it does, it’s often for the wrong reasons, with too many complaints either that it’s “overpriced” or “very disappointing”.

“BBQ, live music, decent cocktails and craft beer” channel the spirit of the American South at this “buzzy”, long-running spot in Chelsea and its more recent spin-offs in Covent Garden and Canary Wharf. The food is “more about quantity than quality”, although the “great-value lunch deals” are popular: “£10 meat taster is unbeatable”.

2021 Review: In less than 20 years, Danny Meyer has transformed his New York City hot-dog cart into a global fast-food brand giant with eight outlets in London – including a Covent Garden flagship that was revamped earlier this year. Ratings remain remarkably solid for “a chain that does what it’s supposed to do”.

2021 Review: Actually in Holborn not Hoxton – “an all-pleasing place, with a cool bar area” that’s part of the Soho House group, tipped for its “excellent breakfasts” and “simple, classic burgers”.

2021 Review: In less than 20 years, Danny Meyer has transformed his New York City hot-dog cart into a global fast-food brand giant with eight outlets in London – including a Covent Garden flagship that was revamped earlier this year. Ratings remain remarkably solid for “a chain that does what it’s supposed to do”.

“Plenty of yummy breakfast options” win praise for this “extremely well done” brunch specialist which launched 19 years ago in Soho and now has 13 self-described ‘cafés’, 10 of them around the capital, and another four bars and pubs. The fry-ups, pancakes and other comfort-food delights can be accompanied by cocktails if you fancy pushing the boat out early with a Breakfast Mai Tai. Any complaints? – “just the incredibly annoying queues”.

2021 Review: A 140-seater ‘craft bar and kitchen’ near some soon-to-be developed railway arches in hip Bethnal Green that opened in June 2019, too late for any survey feedback. It’s open from breakfast on – at lunch and thereafter the main menu offering is pizza.

2021 Review: Since 1971, this age-old rocker has grown from its first site, near Hyde Park Corner, to 186 globally, and 2019 saw the group reinvest massively in the capital, with not just a new hotel (on the site that was once The Cumberland) by Marble Arch, but also with the July 2019 opening of a 19,000 sq ft, multi-level, new London flagship at Piccadilly Circus. The latter opening includes a menu shake-up, which introduces an unsuspecting world to new culinary delights, including the ‘24-Karat Gold Leaf Steak BurgerTM’; (as well as the retail opportunities of ‘the world’s largest Rock Shop”’). For silver-haired reporters (who were alive for the chain’s founding) – a generation by-and-large untroubled by the hipster burger revolution – the “generously meaty” patties of the original are “still the best”, and one early report on the hotel says its restaurant “really rocks” too…. Even allowing for cynicism about the effects of nostalgia on the tastebuds, the brand fares better in the survey than most mass-market offerings.