Chinatown, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

“In the heart of the West End, yet tucked away” – “from the moment you step inside, you know straight away you are in expert hands” at this “satisfyingly plush, old school and reliable” haven, established in 1896 and part of Richard Caring’s empire since 2005. “You don’t mess with a classic, and this is one of them” – a buzzing series of cosy, old-fashioned parlours hiding behind luminescent frosted-glass windows and lined with black-and-white pics of its actor-heavy client-base. “There is a warm glow around the place” and it has long been both the No. 1 choice in our annual diners’ poll for fish and seafood and also the most commented-on destination full stop, helped by the fact that its location in a Theatreland alley makes it so very handy for eating before or after a show. “You know what the menu is offering and it delivers” – “nothing crazy or super-adventurous”, but “first class” oysters, fruits de mer, fish pie, Dover sole, Cornish fish stew and other “excellent fish served in a traditional way”. Service has been criticised more in recent years for being “arrogant” or “ungracious”, but grievous complaints are few and far between and the overall impression is of a “stalwart that’s stood the test of time” (“I feel a little unoriginal voting for it, you always get excellent food in a stimulating environment”).

“So welcoming it feels like home…”; “always look forward to eating here with a glass of house fizz…” – this “noisy, crowded but very fun” Champagne & Seafood bar in Soho is cossetting yet “down to earth” all at the same time and celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. Set in a converted Edwardian butchers’ shop which once supplied The Ritz and The Savoy, a perch on its high stools is “good for people-watching too” while tucking into some “excellent seafood” provided by its “snappy service”. Unusually for a venue that generates a high volume of feedback, not a word of it is negative – the worst being a gentle “not cheap, but good value”.

2024 Review: “Pre or post-theatre, very much a favourite over many years” – this elegant seafood bar was added adjacent to the main restaurant fifteen years ago, and its more laid-back style means it’s tailor-made for a luxurious bite and glass of fizz. That said, it’s become “quite pricey” over time, and doesn’t have quite the dazzling golden glow of yesteryear.

Founded in 2011 by four friends, this interesting concept hit ten sites in London in April 2025 with its debut in Kensington (replacing Street Burger on the high street) and also has a Brighton outpost as well as a handful of footholds in the Middle East and Asia. Fans are still in the majority and say its posh comfort food (the clue is in the name) is “a surprisingly good offering”. But while there are few harsh criticisms, its ratings have over the years slipped to a level that’s only “OK”.

“Forget hopping on a budget flight to the famous Cal Pep in Barcelona…” – the original inspiration for the Hart Bros’ genius small group of tapas pitstops – “… here in London you can sit at the counter, with the fun of watching mouthwatering tapas being prepared in front of you, so delivered piping hot (and best is the unbeatable fresh fish cooked ‘a la plancha’)”. “From the greeting to the explanations of the dishes, service is knowledgeable and caring”; there’s “a good choice of Spanish wines and sherries”; and the “superb” overall formula has made them one of the most popular destinations in our annual diners’ poll for almost 20 years now, even if the feeling has grown that “merely a small selection of dishes can incur eyewatering bills”. Top Tips – “the best atmosphere is had eating perched on a stool at the counter, but the Adelaide Street branch does have comfortable table seating downstairs”. On the Menu – “specific praise for the mojama”; “especially lovely prawn stuffed tortilla, seabream and the crisp aubergine with honey”; “tasty rabbit paella”; “squid croquetas are a perfect combo – crunchy on the outside, unctuous within”. “Shout out for the basics: lovely oils, bread etc…”

“Fabulous, opulent surroundings… but the food does not match up”, sums up the copious feedback on this 2023 Soho revival of a post-War seafood institution (sited near Leicester Square and closed in 2006), long planned by restaurant impresarios Corbin & King but – following their ousting in a management reshuffle – ultimately launched by its successor company, the Thai-owned Wolseley Hospitality Group. A “very well designed and comfortable environment tucked away in Bateman Buildings just off Frith Street” – the “dramatic” dining space incorporates “lush, marine-themed” decor replete with murals, friezes and statues. But while some fans do hail “beautifully fresh seafood” (and “especially the early-evening oysters-and-Champagne offer”), there are too many complaints of “very disappointing” meals with food that’s “variable” or even “poor all round and a rip-off”.

“A bright, clean, open space – huge for Soho” – houses this London outpost from Amsterdam’s De Visscher family, whose “extravagantly sized platters” of fish and seafood are promising but too inconsistent for a higher rating. (A not un-typical reporter “had two very different experiences – one in which the fish was fantastic and service very good – the other with comedically bad service and so-so fish”.)

You choose “the freshest fish” from iced display counters, to have cooked as you wish and served alongside “amazing seafood” at this “busy and exciting” Greek venue in St James’s, from a luxury international chain founded by Costas Spiladi in Montreal nearly 50 years ago that now stretches from Las Vegas via Athens to Singapore. Prices can be off-putting – critics say they’re “for gangstas and business expenses only” – but there are “some good deals at lunch” (or early evening); and advocates say you’re paying for “an absolute classic experience with the best quality”.

“Simply cooked fresh fish (often all you want)” is the USP at this trio of fishmonger/restaurants that offer “extremely reasonable prices for the quality” in prime central locations: off Piccadilly Circus, in Covent Garden and on Marylebone High Street. “The cooking does what it should do – the fish is the star of the show, delivered daily from Cornwall and really well executed”; and “they have specials depending on that day’s catch listed on a blackboard”. It’s “let down a little by staff that need more training to improve both the service and the ambience”.

“Top-class fish prepared well” makes this Covent Garden seafood bar “a welcome oasis in this part of London” and disproportionately popular for its modest size. Happy fans also note that “service is generally prompt and friendly”. On the debit side, the interior can feel “cramped and workaday”, and one or more regulars reckon its performance generally has been a little “chaotic” in recent times (causing a dip in the ratings). Top Menu Tip – “the lunchtime special of fish pie with a glass of house wine for £20 is a steal, particularly in these surroundings”.

“Still a cut above its neighbours in Covent Garden” – “this buzzing little place” is brilliantly pitched for its location and one of the most popular venues for seafood in our annual diners’ poll. It serves “spankingly fresh oysters, terrific scallops” and “beautiful fish accurately done and sometimes interestingly too” – all “without fuss” and accompanied by “reasonably priced wines” (it’s from the team behind 10 Cases wine bar across the road). Top Tip – “sit outside if weather permits; inside can be a tight fit”.

Back in 1993 – when it was rescued from oblivion by the late Sir Terence Conran – this huge St James’s ballroom (est. 1929) – became an icon of London’s 1990s restaurant resurgence. Still owned by the remains of Sir Tel’s empire (renamed recently as The Evolv Collection), it’s nowadays out-of-sight and out of mind for most Londoners and perennially attracts scant feedback in our annual diners’ poll. Reports are of hits and misses – the latter are too common (and in accordance with our own past experience) to ignore: “good steak and nice to have some music. However, our meal and a bottle of (moderate) wine did not deserve a bill totalling £318… Shocking is an understatement”.

USDA prime dry-aged steak – “their hanging tomahawk with dripping fat is a real experience” – is the whole point of a visit to this London outpost of a classic NYC steakhouse group, in the “convenient” and appropriately grand and Manhattan-esque setting of the 1930s Adelphi Building, just off the Strand. But while the interior is “stylish and classy” and the steaks impeccable, this is ultimately “very basic food” that is “far too overpriced” to achieve a better rating.

“Forget hopping on a budget flight to the famous Cal Pep in Barcelona…” – the original inspiration for the Hart Bros’ genius small group of tapas pitstops – “… here in London you can sit at the counter, with the fun of watching mouthwatering tapas being prepared in front of you, so delivered piping hot (and best is the unbeatable fresh fish cooked ‘a la plancha’)”. “From the greeting to the explanations of the dishes, service is knowledgeable and caring”; there’s “a good choice of Spanish wines and sherries”; and the “superb” overall formula has made them one of the most popular destinations in our annual diners’ poll for almost 20 years now, even if the feeling has grown that “merely a small selection of dishes can incur eyewatering bills”. Top Tips – “the best atmosphere is had eating perched on a stool at the counter, but the Adelaide Street branch does have comfortable table seating downstairs”. On the Menu – “specific praise for the mojama”; “especially lovely prawn stuffed tortilla, seabream and the crisp aubergine with honey”; “tasty rabbit paella”; “squid croquetas are a perfect combo – crunchy on the outside, unctuous within”. “Shout out for the basics: lovely oils, bread etc…”

“Some tables afford a view of the Thames, while there is some real dining theatre” at the Savoy’s elegant dining room, whose history in the last 20 years has seen many re-treads under differing names (most recently Kaspar’s). Now back under its old moniker but run by Gordon Ramsay, it divides opinion, with some reporters feeling the “very solid” fish and seafood cooking is let down by a space “very much like a hotel breakfast room”, while others see a “very nice room” let down by “unimaginative food at fancy prices”… so a consensus of sorts! For a traditional, grand family meal or business – including breakfast – it has its fans; to others it’s just too uneventful at the five-star prices.

“Forget hopping on a budget flight to the famous Cal Pep in Barcelona…” – the original inspiration for the Hart Bros’ genius small group of tapas pitstops – “… here in London you can sit at the counter, with the fun of watching mouthwatering tapas being prepared in front of you, so delivered piping hot (and best is the unbeatable fresh fish cooked ‘a la plancha’)”. “From the greeting to the explanations of the dishes, service is knowledgeable and caring”; there’s “a good choice of Spanish wines and sherries”; and the “superb” overall formula has made them one of the most popular destinations in our annual diners’ poll for almost 20 years now, even if the feeling has grown that “merely a small selection of dishes can incur eyewatering bills”. Top Tips – “the best atmosphere is had eating perched on a stool at the counter, but the Adelaide Street branch does have comfortable table seating downstairs”. On the Menu – “specific praise for the mojama”; “especially lovely prawn stuffed tortilla, seabream and the crisp aubergine with honey”; “tasty rabbit paella”; “squid croquetas are a perfect combo – crunchy on the outside, unctuous within”. “Shout out for the basics: lovely oils, bread etc…”

2023 Review: From Cream Group (owners of Cirque le Soir, Restaurant Ours, Wild and The Windmill Soho), this July opening in Mayfair occupies the erstwhile 120-cover site of XO (RIP). Former Elystan Street head chef Toby Burrowes heads up an extravagant offering, which includes a £3,000 ‘sunken treasure’ caviar platter; and a cocktail listed at £5,000 (a rare 1950s gin and a bottle of 1970 Dom Perignon BTW). All good PR. Opening in mid-July 2022, this new spot calls itself a ‘clubstaurant’ – not a term we feel needs encouragement.

Opposite the Savoy Hotel across the traffic of The Strand, this new Italian seafood specialist from the team behind Bocconcino in Mayfair and Soho offers a fair amount of affordable luxury in the West End, as advertised by its centrepiece display of fish on an ice counter. Seafood platters are about £30, a whole salt-baked fish for two about £60, but there is also a range of pizzas sub-£20 alongside numerous pasta and meat dishes. No reports as yet in our annual diners’ poll, nor newspaper reviews, but the online buzz surrounding it suggests it serves its purpose.