Watford, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

As per its appearance on Netflix’s ‘Million Dollar Buffet’ with Grace Dent, the dining room of this luxe country estate hotel revolves around a buffet that’s “best for those who want to splurge” (to the tune of a still highly reasonable £65 per person during the week, or £78 per person on weekends). Live-action food stations showcase a “huge choice of different cuisines” – sushi, seafood, stone-baked pizzas, just to stick with the ‘s’ options – that, while not being mega-foodie, are “excellent all-round” and make for a brilliant family outing (not least as kids “love the dessert section”). Top Tip – despite the very posh surroundings, the ambience is “not at all stuffy or pretentious” as one might fear.

This “lovely old pub” in the Chilterns, handy for the Harry Potter antics at Warner Bros Studio nearby, built up quite a reputation for its Anglo-French cooking over nearly two decades under husband-and-wife team Sally & Alvin Michaels. The 18th-century venue is now managed by Alvin’s former protégé Matt Jackson (and part of the growing RedCat pub company) but, on limited feedback this year, its “exceptional pub dining” still makes it a local magnet.

This village gastroboozer was taken over by Terry Wogan’s daughter Katherine and her husband Henry back in 2011 and “what a local” it still is, turning out “always superb food” (“Sunday lunch is amazing”) that’s “great value” too. Having called time on its elder sibling The White Oak in Cookham in 2024, after failing to renegotiate the lease (the new regime there is the Brucan Pubs group), this “top-notch gastropub” is now the couple’s only focus.

A photo of Ronnie O’Sullivan’s visit is “proudly displayed on the wall” of this Muswell Hill institution, and fans say “the best player ever to pick up a snooker cue is bang-on with his choice of North London fish restaurant!”, acclaiming “fish ’n chips that goes down a treat”, and has done for more than half a century. It was sold by its family owners in March 2024 to a national group with plans to spin it out as a brand – fingers crossed its appeal survives!

A “classic English pub” that advertises itself as Britain’s oldest no less, and whose 900-year-old walls have welcomed more than their fair share of TV and film crews (‘The Theory of Everything’, ‘Hot Fuzz’ and ‘Midsomer Murders’ were all shot there, the latter lending its name to their chicken pie). The menu takes in hearty soups, steaks and other pubby fare – and “what a fab atmosphere – it makes the food taste better”. Top Tip – if you want to compensate for the calories, the location offers “good post-meal walking options across fields and woods”.

This longstanding “local favourite”, tucked away on the Chiswick-Acton border, benefits from a characterful Art Deco interior and “amazing secret garden” out back. The “efficient and friendly staff” serve a Mediterranean-influenced menu that “changes frequently to reflect seasonal ingredients”.

Tom Conran’s lively Bayswater favourite celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, and remains “a wonderful spot for a long lunch, starting with Guinness and oysters”. There has been no need to update the Irish pub theme, which is as fashionable as ever (as witnessed in the recent launch of The Devonshire off Piccadilly Circus). The artless cooking is “foodie” but straightforward, with seafood (oysters, whelks, cockles, crab or a pint-of-prawns) the top pick. Top Tip – tiny, cute first-floor dining room, with a separate menu.

This well-known Archway pub (George Michael’s favourite back in the day, apparently) benefits from a beautiful, high-ceilinged dining annex (originally a ballroom) and serves “what you might call traditional food with an international twist (particularly Spanish with some tapas evenings”).

“A very good neighbourhood gastropub” – this Hammersmith backstreet boozer is no longer No. 1 on TripAdvisor (as it was several years ago), to the great relief of the local residents. The relatively new management are “really helpful” and the “no-nonsense pub grub” is much jazzier than under previous regimes. Top Menu Tip – “Sunday lunch is very good with lots of families happily munching into a roast”.

“Only for cheese lovers… and that’s me!” – the clue is in the name at Mathew Carver’s “fun and different” venue – a 96ft custom-built, double-decker barge permanently moored in Paddington Basin, which showcases “a great selection of British cheeses with interesting pairings”. “Out-of-town visitors love it”. Top Menu Tip – “The curried cheese curds are amazing”.

This “always entertaining”, flower-bedecked 1750 tavern near Notting Hill Gate “still scores bang for the buck” with the Thai menu it has served for more than 25 years in a buzzy conservatory to the back of the main pub. It’s lost some of its renown for exceptional value in recent times, but it remains a somewhat eccentric one-off, whose popularity makes booking essential in the evening. (The pub was renamed to honour the wartime leader, whose grandparents apparently supped here).

“For a jolly night out with the girls”, these “warm and luxurious” west London haunts are just the job. An “extensive list of cocktails” is key to their allure – “the food is not the main attraction although it’s perfectly acceptable”. Lorraine Angliss (who also owns Annie’s and Little Bird) opened the Richmond original in 2009; its Chiswick sibling followed in 2022.

A “gem in the West End” – The Langham Hotel and Michel Roux Jr partnered in 2017 to create this reimagined British boozer north of Oxford Circus, and the result has proved to be one of Londoners’ favourite gastropubs, not least thanks to its menu of “great refined pub classics” at “fair prices for the location”. Casual enough for post-works drinks, it’s also smart enough for an informal business meal. Top Menu Tip – “the best cheese toastie this side of the Alps”.

Proximity to Richmond Park – a large terrace for sunny days – and a comfortable, attractive interior help justify the ongoing inclusion of this eighteenth-century Fuller’s pub, near Sheen Gate. In other respects, its ratings remain resolutely ordinary.

“It does rather ooze money and privilege, but the food is very good indeed” at Richard Caring’s “chic” Mayfair A-lister: “a classic with crowd-pleasing glitz” where (in Ian Fleming’s novels) commander Bond is a regular. “One of the grand seafood palaces of central London with a vast seafood bar”, its cuisine is “not in the grand gourmet mould” – “high-quality” fish and seafood “prepared with flair” from an “evolving menu, such that old favourites are regularly joined by creative new dishes”. “Service is always polished and efficient, and the room retains its glamour and buzz year in, year out”: “a go-to for any significant celebration… or just for a treat”. Top Tip – “perfect for business, with the best grilled Dover Sole”.

“The theatrical elements are sometimes ridiculous, but it‘s very unlikely you would go away unhappy”, according to fans of culinary boffin Heston Blumenthal’s Knightsbridge dining room. Here the unique culinary approach is not his Fat Duck’s ‘molecular gastronomy’, but to re-package recipes researched from Tudor and Georgian cookbooks for the modern era. Most famous is the “sublime meat fruit” (a kind of pâté made to look like a satsuma) but recent menus include the likes of “‘Ragoo of Pigs Ear on Toast’ (c.1727)” and other concoctions. At its best “it’s a great and memorable experience” and one for which Michelin have awarded a coveted two stars. But there’s perennially a huge disconnect between this accolade and its performance in our annual diners’ poll. Even fans concede it’s “hugely expensive”; and year in year out there’s a very significant proportion who are “incredibly disappointed” with the food; or who feel “it’s trading on one or two exceptional dishes at eye-watering prices that don’t match what’s on offer”. By day in particular, this large chamber is a “beautiful” space, with Hyde Park glimpses, particularly from the tables near the windows, while by night the ambience can be more “clinical”, not helped by incidents of “charmless” or “inattentive” service. If Heston were not world famous, the tyre man might have taken away at least one star here a long time ago.

“Wonderful old school charm” oozes from this offbeat Young’s pub, in a quiet Mayfair mews. The public bar at the front is characterful, but it’s the charming and comfortable adjoining grill room (opened in 1952, and significantly extended over the years) that makes this place such a magnet for steak-lovers and business wheeler-dealers. As well as dishes like Chateaubriand, Côte de Boeuf and Sirloin – and sides like Haggis or Ox Heart – there’s a wide variety of traditional dishes and some of “the best pies in town”. After personnel changes last year, ratings took a dive, but it returned to a good all-round performance in this year’s annual diners’ poll and is “now on top form”. Top Menu Tip – “best devilled kidneys ever”.

“If you like pies, beer and wine”, this Young’s pub is – say fans – “a good choice”, especially when you need relatively affordable sustenance in Mayfair. But despite serious investment in recent times – with the addition of an upstairs restaurant and roof terrace – ratings slipped this year (with a couple of reports such as: “not sure what’s happened, but it’s really gone downhill”; or “far too noisy and cramped, and the pies we had read so much about were not as good as M&S!”).