City, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“‘Unchanged by time’ defines Sweetings” – in a quiet way, “one of London’s iconic restaurants”, although its clientele is almost exclusively made up of City brokers who have sustained it on its current site by Mansion House tube since the 1920s (it was founded elsewhere in the 1830s). “Unchanged service (efficient and friendly); unchanged team (some of whom – like the loyal customer base – are unchanged from the last century); unchanged atmosphere in the last 50 years” at least. Arrive by noon if you want to beat the traders to a seat at the small counter or sit in the dining room. “Superb fish” is “cooked simply and well in the English grilled style”. “Kick off with the modestly priced pint of Black Velvet served in a pewter tankard. Try a half-dozen really fresh oysters with a lovely red onion and red vinegar dressing (you can almost hear the sea!). Follow with the fried plaice, homemade tartar sauce and new potatoes in butter”. “Perfect”. “It’s not cheap” but “thank goodness it’s still there”.

“A wonderful location overlooking St Paul’s and the river” – complete with “fantastic view of the Thames” – creates a “gorgeous”, if unavoidably touristy, setting for this South Bank pub, which is incorporated into Shakespeare’s Globe theatre. Locals support it too though: in particular it’s “a lovely spot for afternoon tea” and “even if the teas are Shakespeare-themed, they aren’t over-tacky”. The contemporary British food is also well-rated at other times.

Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, this attractive operation makes the most of its spectacular setting overlooking Borough Market from a dramatic wrought-iron and glass structure (that once formed part of Covent Garden’s Royal Opera House). Flying the flag for traditional British cuisine – in particular steaks and Beef Wellington – it is most popular for business entertaining, and particularly well-established as a “reliable and enjoyable” destination for work breakfasts, with “decent food, professional service and strong coffee” (“just what you need when entertaining clients at 8am”). In terms of value for money, though, it loses out to numerous neighbours in and around the market.

Now moved to Ludgate Hill from the Paternoster Square perch that originally provided its name, this D&D London restaurant is a “decent and safe option” – although a more upbeat description has it “doing what the City enjoys, with high levels of testosterone and impressive steaks”. “Swarming with suits” – it’s a natural for business entertaining.

“The OG” of ‘nose-to-tail’ British cuisine and recherché offal-related dishes – Trevor Gulliver and Fergus Henderson’s Smithfield icon is “as brilliant as ever” after all these years (it opened in 1994). Occasionally reports accuse it of “complacency”, but for the most part they pay awed homage to its “top cooking and fine ingredients” delivered by “superb, genuinely engaging and caring staff”. There’s an “excellent wine list” too. “The matching stark white dining room” of this converted smokehouse “still has that Scandi-chic feel, but is oh-so-loud – perhaps the worst acoustic of any restaurant ever!”. Top Menu Tip – “Worth it for the roast bone marrow alone”; suckling pig is a favourite for a group celebration; and “it’s one place you must never pass on pudding!” (“amazing Marmalade Bakewell, Rhubarb Trifle, Steamed Sponge… all excellent)”.

“A most enjoyable meal in an attractive setting” is reported by just over half of reporters visiting the cheaper section of this rooftop landmark on the South Bank. The remainder, though, “expect much, much better at these prices”: “it has a great view but very disappointing food and service – trading off its location!”

“All the dishes are a wonderful hit to the taste buds” at this Spitalfields canteen. Despite its utilitarian decor, fans say “it just feels so relaxed” and is “a great but more accessible way to access the mighty St John cooking” with Fergus Henderson’s trademark ‘nose-to-tail’ approach (snails, faggots, pig’s ear soup etc). That said, one or two long-term regulars do feel it’s “gone off the boil” a little recently – “still good, but it does seem to have slipped a little”; perhaps just a blip? Top Menu Tip – “save room for the madeleines!”.

“The great meat cookery never disappoints at this a quirky venue” – a Clerkenwell institution opened in 1869 as a ‘Progressive Working Class Caterer’ and nowadays part of Will Lander & Daniel Morgenthau’s group. “Top quality cuts are cooked to a T” – “imaginative fare” that’s full of “meaty goodness”. The “uncomfortable pews” annoy some customers, but won’t be replaced because they’re Grade II listed – the private dining room upstairs is a good alternative if there are seven or more in your party. Top Menu Tip – the “confit potatoes always get ‘wow’ responses from first-timers”.

“Stylish surroundings, well-executed classics and pies that are still amazing” win tips – especially for a business meal – for this British brasserie in a grand hotel, whose prominent ‘Midtown’ location on Holborn and in the heart of Legal Land is well served by its high-ceilinged space lined with plush leather banquettes. It continues to inspire the odd ‘off’ report though, largely relating to high prices and the occasional incident of poor service. Top Menu Tips – though pies are the main menu feature, charcuterie and seafood also feature.

Could it be a dream team? Restaurant supremo Jeremy King has partnered with Savoy owners Fairmont to mastermind the autumn 2024 relaunch of this celebrated temple to roast beef on the Strand (est. 1828) which backs onto The Savoy. King has described Simpson’s as “the last of the ‘grande dame’ restaurants that still retains its original décor and features” and few relaunches carry such expectations and potential. The astonishing mediocrity of its traditional fare over recent decades has – notwithstanding its period charms; ongoing fame; large size; half-hearted relaunch after half-hearted relaunch; the huge surge in interest in dining out; and rising esteem for British cuisine – become an ever-more-obscure anachronism. King has said he envisions “a big-theatre brasserie”, but one that would “very much hark on its tradition” (“I want people to walk in there and say, ‘Oh good, they haven’t changed it’, although it will have changed”). Even if they have auctioned off the famous beef trolleys, if anyone can do it, it will be King… it could be so good.

“Always a place to impress your business guest” – this famous chamber (one of Lady Thatcher’s favourites back in the day) has “sufficiently widely spaced tables to encourage discreet conversation” and the Art Deco elegance of its surroundings has, by and large, survived its recent ‘Gatsby’ makeover. It’s had its ups and downs under the Gordon Ramsay group’s long (20+ years) tenure here and is not in a purple period currently. Much of the problem is “ludicrous prices”. Those on expenses do acclaim “the iconic Arnold Bennett soufflé, the deeply satisfying Cote de Boeuf to share (if your guest is a meat eater: if not point him/her in the direction of the steamed turbot) and the magnificent Beef Wellington” but even they acknowledge “the bill is serious”. Those paying their own way are more inclined to feel: “it used to be a favourite, especially for that special occasion, but the mark-up on the wines in particular have become a rip-off”.

“Step back in time at London’s oldest restaurant” – on this site, in Covent Garden, since 1798 – “where the best of British resounds in its decor, menu and ambience”. “Sometimes derided for being outdated or a tourist trap” (“fellow guests were either Yanks or elderly Brexiteers”), it actually remains remarkably “popular with the locals” and its large fan club says “a visit should be on everyone’s bucket list”. Hollywood would be proud of the decor (“it looks like the kind of place you dine in before deciding to conquer a remote land in the name of the crown”) and – though some of its antique furnishings are vaguely “preposterous” – the “special time warp” that’s created is “enchanting”. The “classic” menu has a fair share of “old-school-boy favourites” featuring a good amount of meat and game; and although it is “expensive” and “won’t blow you away”, it is “done well”. “The wine list is OK if not great (sort of gentlemen’s club level) but at least the mark-ups are reasonable”. “Don’t forget to visit the hidden gem of an upstairs cocktail bar to get the full experience”. Top Menu Tip – “the old fashioned steak and kidney suet pudding with rich extra gravy in a silver boat. Crisp on the outside, meltingly soft on the inside with gloriously tender pieces of meat”.

For the ultimate Full English, this superbly atmospheric greasy joe in Bethnal Green is justifiably renowned. It’s arguably most notable for its Grade II listed Art Deco interior, but vital to its appeal is the “truly friendly service from the owners” (it has been run by four generations of the Pellicci family since 1900).

“We always come here when in London, as it’s such an atmospheric venue in a fantastic location” – St Martin-in-the-Fields has a superb, brick-vaulted crypt and its self-service cafeteria provides an unusually affordable option in this prime area. It’s variable though – hit lucky and you can have “a good value, very casual meal, if from a limited menu”; but one or two reports this year noted “real disappointment with the food offering”.

“A wonderful old-school oasis below the hell that is Leicester Square” – this “fabulous throwback to a proper wine bar” is “remarkably unchanged” since Don Hewitson opened it in 1971 (and his successor Will Clayton sticks to the winning formula). “The famous ham-and-cheese pie is well worth its million-odd portions! and is the perfect accompaniment to a great wine list”.