Watford, Italian Restaurant Guide

“Twenty years old and still a reasonable choice” – this duo serving Spanish/Italian tapas “remains a cut above the average”, at both the original Fitzrovia original venue and a newer site in Borough Market (an outpost at Westfield Shepherd’s Bush was short-lived). However, “there are now many more similar places available” than when quality tapas seemed a rarity in the capital, and some long-term fans dwell on the fact that they’ve “gone downhill” over the decades, now feeling “slightly more expensive than they should be”.

“Well-located – tucked behind Regent Street on the corner of Ganton and Kingly Streets”, this Soho haunt has stood the test of time. Its Italian/Spanish tapas is uniformly rated as “good” and “even if it used to be miles better when it opened, it doesn’t really matter because the place has a lovely feel – ideal for whiling away a lunch with a friend”. (“Wish they would change the high bar stool seats, though: they are just uncomfortable!”). Top Tip – pavement seating in summer, and some fans also tip the “quiet downstairs cellar dining room”.

“The odd 70s decor will not be to everyone’s taste” (“hello, what looks like Meccano and some random ornaments”), but many diners are pleasantly surprised by this offbeat Italian (“in looks, somewhat like an American diner”) which sits “inside the multi-coloured Megaro Hotel, bang opposite St Pancras station”. The Italian food is “surprisingly good”, staff are “super-helpful” and “on-point” and – despite the quirks of the “unprepossessing location” – the kind pricing helps lead to an experience that fans say is an “all-round hit”. Top Menu Tip – “the pasta dishes in particular are very good (proper Italian)”; “beef shin risotto, arrancini and the black pudding croquettes are excellent”.

With its “lovely Italian vibe in Charlotte Street”, this Fitzrovia townhouse provides a high-quality, under-the-radar experience. Launched in 2019, it’s a slightly offbeat part of hotel group The Stafford Collection, although aside from its smart interior that’s the only hint of a wider group connection. The cooking is inspired by the crossover of southern Italian and Moorish cuisine (“I fell in love with Sicily a year or two ago and this is what I’ve been looking for!”) and the culinary offering is “delightful (albeit not cheap)”. Top Menu Tips – “the spaghetti fritters are more addictive than crack!”; and “the set lunch is an absolute steal”.

It’s hard to keep up with this “lovely Soho old-timer” which was founded in 1971 but has shifted location twice since it first opened its doors (most recently in 2021 from Poland Street). First timers say “what a surprise, it’s really good!” and those in-the-know (who include former Prime Minister, Gordon Brown, who had his engagement party at the former site) appreciate it as “a very friendly family-run ‘real’ Italian restaurant in the heart of the West End”. “Delicious seafood and fish dishes” in particular are a highlight of the Umbria-inspired menu; and owner Paul Matteucci (son of Vasco) is “an exceptional host” (particularly once you are known as a regular). Top Menu Tip – “the carpaccio di tonno is outstanding”; and “the range, quality and value of wine is immense and very difficult to find in these inflation-hit days”.

Just off Sloane Street, this stalwart trattoria has been a feature since 1974, and its crowd of old-faithful diners are slowly warning to the new regime, who refurbished and relaunched it in 2023. Reports are still not as numerous as during its heyday, but after last year’s dip, its ratings are improved and feedback focuses on the traditional virtues that have made it such a keeper: “a solid Italian. We experienced one ‘off day’ before Christmas, but otherwise have found it consistently good”, particularly the “wonderful and friendly” service.

When it launched in Soho 10 years ago, the Salt Yard group (of which it’s part) was zeitgeistily surfing the tapas trend sweeping London: here, using the wood-fired grill to put a spin on its Spanish and Italian-inspired sharing plates. It’s still a stylish place (although the odd fan feels the decor “is a bit tired” now), and wins uniform praise for delivering “super tasty” results.

“Upmarket Italian” – associated with a lifestyle brand originally specialising in yachtie apparel, these luxurious all-day cafés aim to recreate the retro glamour of 1950s Italy, complete with deep blue awnings, wood panelled walls and white-jacketed staff. At their best they are a “lovely dining experience”, but – especially given the aspirational pricing – they sometimes fall short of their aims with an offering that can seem “mass and carelessly produced”.

That it’s “good fun” has kept this Knightsbridge trattoria clipping along since 1984 (and it’s been part of the nationwide San Carlo Group for about half that time). Even fans admit it’s “cramped”, that “the food quality is not consistent” or that “its reputation is a bit bewildering”, but they say “you can overlook that given its convivial service and generous helpings”.

“Sally Clarke continues to oversee her Kensington oasis and ensures high standards are maintained” as she has since 1984 at this paragon of enduring quality, just south of Notting Hill Gate. Inspired originally by her time at Chez Panisse in California in the late 1970s, “the focus on quality ingredients pays off in the dishes and everything is deceptively simply prepared and tastes amazing”. “It’s not flash but all the better for that – not cheap but worth every penny”. “Remarkably, Sally is still working front of house every night ensuring guests feel welcomed and at home” and – especially for older romantics – “there is no music; tables are well spaced; the lighting is great; one can whisper sweet-nothings without the next table overhearing; and it slightly feels like one has taken one’s lover home to meet the family (and your mum happens to cook a good dinner). It’s a class act!”. Top Menu Tips – “all tastes are catered for and vegetables swapped round from the menu to accommodate likes and dislikes”. Highlights among starters include “super fresh crab”, “pasta with grated black truffle and an excellent white asparagus”; among mains, “superb Dover sole” and “fabulous deer, perfectly medium rare with superb accompaniments”; “excellent cheeseboard, then delicious comice pear sorbets with amazingly good pistachio wafers”.