Harden's survey result
This pioneer of Spanish and Italian small-plates dining near Goodge Street station is “still going strong after so many years for a very good reason” – “interesting and yummy dishes plus good wine”. Ratings have remained solid since the whole group (including siblings Dehesa, Opera Tavern and Ember Yard) was taken over late last year by Urban Pubs & Bars from Simon Mullins and Sanja Moy, who opened Salt Yard in 2005. There’s even been a “big improvement in the ambience of the basement”. Top Menu Tip – “deep fried courgette flowers with honey: the cheesy goodness within marries perfectly with the honey sweetness drizzled over… just wow!”
“Delights such as octopus with saffron mayo” are amongst the “very appealing small plates”, inspired by Spain and Italy, that put Simon Mullins’s “friendly and informal” bar in Fitzrovia at the vanguard of London’s “upmarket tapas” trend. Even if it no longer makes culinary waves as it did, ratings are back to a five-year high this year. Any complaints? – as ever, it’s “cramped and crowded”.
“Tapas slightly outside the normal offerings (courgette flowers and squid croquettes are especially good)” have made a big name for Simon Mullins’s “always packed and squeezed in” Fitzrovia “favourite” (the original member of his group). It’s no longer a ‘wow’ nowadays though, and some fear “the bill’s always a bit bigger than expected”.
“Upmarket Italian/Spanish tapas”, (“some genuinely exciting standouts”) served by “knowledgeable but not over-bearing” staff in an “informal” setting earn enduring popularity for this well-known Fitzrovia haunt (the original of Simon Mullins’s small group), even if it no longer appears as cutting edge as it once did.
|Wine per bottle||£22.00|
54 Goodge St, London, W1T 4NA
all day noon - 11 pm
Last orders: 10.45 pm, Sun 9.45 pm