Ember Yard

Handy for Oxford Street, the latest outpost of the Salt Yard empire; it's a useful enough place, very much in the style of its predecessors, but we couldn't see it rising to any sort of 'destination' status.

When you've had a string of successful, and in their day somewhat innovative, restaurants - Salt Yard, Dehesa, Opera Tavern - it must be difficult to keep the initiative flowing. The business case to open A N Other outlet probably seems compelling. Perhaps the bank will even lend you the money for one! But how do you keep those creative juices flowing?

That's the issue we weren't quite sure had really been successfully addressed when we sought out the latest addition to the Salt Yard group. Situated at the less fashionable end of a once-dull Soho street (toward the Oxford Street end), it struck us as an amalgam of everything the one-time small-plate pioneers had done before, but without bringing anything particularly new or distinctive to the mix - in short, a reviewer's worst nightmare!

Let's just say, then, that the charcuterie, cheese and small plates menu was as anyone who's been to Salt Yard would probably expect, that the surroundings (a bit cramped) were likewise, and that the service was very friendly, and trying very hard.

A really useful stand-by, then, for shoppers at this (cheaper) end of Oxford Street. But any real, positive reason actively to seek the place out? No, you've got us stumped.