London, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“The original of the City’s high-quality restaurants” – ex-Goldman banker, Soren Jessen’s venture in a converted banking hall near the Bank of England “is still going strong” and recently celebrated its 25th anniversary. A linchpin of business entertaining in the Square Mile, “the large dining room is well-equipped for both discreet business meetings or more lively get-togethers” and “very good front-of-house staff recognise when deals are being done”: “they can get you in and out in an hour”. “The menu is broad but appropriate for the besuited clientele, with a mix of traditional British dishes and a hint of European cuisines”. “It is not going to be a gastronomic knockout, but that’s not what you go for: it’s decent high- quality food at decent-but-not-astronomical prices”. Top Tip – also a “great venue for breakfast”.

Gordon Ramsay’s comfortable, upscale brasserie chain continues to inspire feedback that’s very mixed and surprisingly limited for the sizeable empire of an international megastar. Naysayers reckon: “What a disappointment! Average food is served in a cavernous space by staff who seemed unhappy to be there”; or that “they no longer seem like they care, just serving formulaic, bland food”. This year’s most positive comment? “It was actually much better than I expected, having no great hopes. Service and speed were pretty laid back, which suited us. The food was well-cooked and presented, even if menu choices (mains especially) struck me as a bit weird and perhaps trying to cover too many bases”.

A particularly solid choice for brunch – this “buzzy” Kiwi-run chain (with seven branches) fits the bill well, with “interesting small plates” of pan-global fusion food and an emphasis on notably good coffee (which they roast in-house). On the downside, the food is often “passable and no more” and their “lively” interiors (Granary Square in particular) can become “hopelessly crowded”, giving rise to incidents of “slapdash service”. Still, they’re “fun” and “reasonably priced”. (See also Vardo).

“A great wine list from all corners of the globe” has helped underpin the ongoing popularity of this modern wine bar chain, despite a year that saw it sold out of administration and the closure of its popular King’s Cross branch. Although this period inspired iffy marks and the odd report of “totally disorganised” service, the four remaining outlets still inspire tons of, albeit slightly lukewarm nominations as a handy option “for a simple meal”: “don’t expect any sort of culinary fireworks” from the “straightforward” dishes “but there are some very nice, reasonably priced wines” and the interiors are “definitely pleasant”. Top Menu Tips – “lovely cheese croquettes and steak ’n’ chips”.

This “City classic” in a former banking hall near the Bank of England makes a “safe if unexciting choice for dining with ‘colleagues’” or clients. “Nothing hits a high note but neither is it tuneless” – which suits its besuited business clientele just fine. There’s a wide range of traditional-ish brasserie fare, with daily specials, pies, steak and British Cheeses each something of a menu feature.

Easily missed, “near the Millennium (wobbly) Bridge” directly opposite Tate Modern, Neleen Strauss’s “sparse” riverside venture is worth investigating. The focus is simple: “great steaks (from Yorkshire) with everything else – including passionate rugby support – from South Africa”. Star of the show is, some would say, the “Saffer wine list – a reasonably priced one, too”.

“Great vibes and view of the city” are undisputed attractions of Jason Atherton’s City eyrie on the 24th floor of Tower 42 (which old timers will remember was the highest building in the UK till 1990). Critics say “the food here is a little bland and not as memorable as you would want given the standard and price”, but more common is the view that it’s all-round “excellent” and it remains a firm favourite for business entertaining. (It’s now one of only two survivors of Atherton’s ‘Social’ brand).

Still-limited and somewhat up-and-down feedback on the posher part of this foliage-filled space on the 37th floor of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ (your reservation gives you access to the surrounding ‘Sky Garden’, for which you otherwise need a ticket). Nowadays the stoves are overseen by Anguillan-raised Kerth Gumbs, who puts a Caribbean spin on some dishes, be it from the à la carte or the 9-course tasting menu for £95. The odd critic considers it “overpriced and mediocre”, but fans say it’s “exceptional and romantic”.

London’s highest rooftop brasserie is on the 36th floor of the Walkie Talkie – “booking a meal here is the easiest way to get the view as the free public tickets vanish very quickly when made available!”. “The venue does not trade too rapaciously on the location and offers a pleasant if unambitious menu”. (“The view is best appreciated from the ‘Sky Garden’ that surrounds the restaurant, so it is worth taking time before or after eating to explore that”).

What does it say about the culinary tastes of the British middle classes that this spin-off chain, with about 40 locations based on the original Theatreland icon, has been such a rip-roaring success? True, there’s some “great people-watching” at the “always buzzing” Chelsea Garden venue (which has one of SW3’s best gardens). And, without doubt, those branches in Kensington, Tower Bridge and Kingston also particularly stand out amongst the rest for their “super atmosphere”. In general though, the knock-off look of their locations “isn’t a patch on the original on West Street, yet pretends to be exactly the same”. And when it comes to their brasserie dishes: although its many followers tout them as “acceptable, albeit nothing special”, their rating-average identifies them as “underwhelming tick-box fare”; all offered by service that’s very “indifferent”. And yet they are “always busy”! In June 2024, it was announced that billionaire Richard Caring had successfully sold his entire Ivy restaurants stake. Now that he is laughing all the way to the bank, it will be interesting to see if ratings reverse, continue or deepen their southward trend.

“Proper British food” of the “sort that isn’t fashionable any more” is the USP of this pub near the entrance to the Barbican arts centre. The “seasonal fare with some wonderful dishes you rarely see in other restaurants” is “filling and tasty”, and the Sunday roast is particularly recommended. Top Menu Tip – “try the cod’s head: absolutely amazing, but not for the faint-hearted!”

“A wonderful location overlooking St Paul’s and the river” – complete with “fantastic view of the Thames” – creates a “gorgeous”, if unavoidably touristy, setting for this South Bank pub, which is incorporated into Shakespeare’s Globe theatre. Locals support it too though: in particular it’s “a lovely spot for afternoon tea” and “even if the teas are Shakespeare-themed, they aren’t over-tacky”. The contemporary British food is also well-rated at other times.

“Dining on the 40th floor” (“you ride up a small glass-enclosed elevator”) of the City’s Heron Tower – with “walls that are all glass, for an incredible view of London” – is “a great experience” that’s “worth all the hype”. The signature duck & waffle dish (2 million sold!) “is normally OK”, but really “the food should be much better”. The 24/7 opening hours make it ideal for a late-night date, while “weekend brunch with views is lovely for a special occasion”.

“What could be more romantic than a lovely meal and a bouquet of flowers from the in-house florist?” Ed & Dee Reid are striking a good tone with this City yearling on a picturesque alley north of Mansion House tube. Oysters and steaks to share and a selection of cheeses are featured on the focused menu of dishes sourced in the British Isles. End result: “relaxed ambience with good food” and there’s also “a varied and interesting selection of wines”.

“A welcome and stylish addition to the City” – this vast newcomer has a Manhattan-esque exterior at the foot of a huge 1920s block facing onto London Bridge (the ground floor of the old House of Fraser building). Inside, it‘s “a mimic of the original” near the Ritz, with its high ceilings, monochrome tiled floor, and cream and chestnut colour scheme: “it may not have quite the same buzz as Piccadilly”, but looks-wise “does the job well”. It serves a similar “brasserie-plus” menu, and although results can be “mediocre”, then firstly, this is also true of the original; and secondly, “as you would expect, the trade is mostly business lunchers” whose expectations tend to be modest. In fact, many reports rate it as “almost identical to its namesake” and often compliment its service too. Overall, though, ratings are dragged down by too many middling and poor reviews. No particular themes emerge as to where the main faults lie, but with a venue this big consistency is key and still seems to need work. Top Tip – as at the original, “breakfast is superb” and already popular with the local suits, with “duck egg and haggis particularly recommended”.

“Every course of the tasting menu is a revelation”, say fans of Johnnie Crowe, Luke Wasserman & Toby Neill’s “calm” and “imaginatively decorated” two-year-old, which enjoys fine views of St Bartholomew the Great and its cloisters through its floor-to-ceiling windows. The cuisine is strongly rooted in the British Isles and results can be “stunning” – “well deserving of the star” the tyre men awarded swiftly after it opened. Perhaps reflecting increasing prices (now £160 per person for a six-course menu), it didn’t quite achieve the top ratings this year that it did in last year’s annual diners’ poll, and the odd critic feels it risks becoming “too cool, up itself and expensive”.