London, Italian Restaurant Guide

“It never changes and that’s the point” of a visit to visiting this well-preserved (hipster-free) greasy spoon in Bethnal Green, whose listed, Art Deco interior (much used in filming TV dramas) is a fine period piece. That “there’s always a special welcome” confirms its position in the hearts of its fans as “one of the best places in London for breakfast” of the traditional variety.

“Very suave service” (“the staff make the meal into an occasion”) adds to the polish of Pablo de Tarso and Nicolas Jaouën’s “elegant” and “quite formal” (“white tablecloths, etc”) Italian: one of the better options in Covent Garden “to make an evening feel special before or after a show”. “Very accomplished” cooking completes the picture, although arguably “more traditional dishes work best”. Top Menu Tip: “particularly excellent osso bucco”.

Angela Hartnett’s “superb” Mayfair flagship has taken Pip Lacey’s 2017 departure in its stride, and although its ratings dipped fractionally year-on-year, many reporters still feel Oscar Holgado’s “Italian-oriented cuisine must be amongst the best in town”. When it comes to the interior, the harsh view is that these “un-flashy” premises “on a quiet street” are “a little dull”, but the more common verdict is that its “restrained and elegant” style “oozes class and calm” and that “the warm welcome and graceful professional service gets any visit off to a flying start”.

“A proper Italian restaurant, like being in Rome” – this stalwart between Olympia and Holland Park serves “consistently great food”, with an emphasis on “fresh fish and seafood”. A favourite of the late Michael Winner, it has fallen off the foodie radar in recent years but still scores highly, not least thanks to its “welcoming” and sympathetic staff.

“One of the last, good, old-fashioned Italians, churning out those dishes we love” – this “always reliable, family run Italian” has “a formula that’s worked for decades, so why change?”. There’s a “wonderful manager, James” (the original owner’s son), and “you’re always welcomed like a long-lost friend”. But “it’s not an institution living on past glories”: “the food is without pretence” but “with some newer dishes to maintain interest”.

“A true and glorious phenomenon… you just need to arrive very early to beat the queues!” – Tim Siadatan and Jordan Frieda’s Borough Market two-year-old is the ultimate budget option in the capital thanks to serving “perfect pasta” (“the best in London”), “served quickly” and at a supremely “affordable” price, in a setting that’s “cramped” but “buzzy” and “fun”. And “now with a virtual queuing system in the evening, you can head off for a drink instead of waiting outside!”