London, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Fabulous on all levels” – Taylor Bonnyman’s “utterly exceptional” dining room, “hidden in the heart of Chelsea” provides “not only a real treat, but a genuinely interesting gastronomic experience”. “Beautifully crafted, creative food combinations are served with professional yet genuine charm” in “such a beautiful space”. “It’s difficult to find any fault” – if you tried hard you might say that the “decor is a bit ‘posh restaurant’”.

“All round 10/10!” – The re-launched Roux-branded operation in this “elegant” and “beautiful” dining room, a stone’s throw from Broadcasting House, jumped up several gears this year, as a lift in ratings coincided with its February 2018 re-launch in a new more “relaxed and simple” guise, incorporating a new, central dining counter and adopting a luxurious, ‘no-tablecloths’ style. “Not one thing is amiss” when it comes to the “exceptional” modern French cuisine (which now takes a more ingredient-led approach), service is exemplary, and the overall experience is “one of pure indulgence” (especially for a romantic occasion).

Chef William Drabble maintains a low profile but his “expert cuisine” inspires a small but smitten fan club for this under-the-radar dining room in a swish St James’s hotel – a “cosy room with enough room between tables for privacy”. “He remains in the kitchen, where he belongs, and remains my favourite chef!”

Marcus Wareing’s “quietly luxurious” Belgravia dining room is one of London’s best-known temples of gastronomy and for its very many fans it fully lives up to that reputation with its “balanced, precise and beautifully presented cuisine”, “discreet and attentive service”, and its “spacious and elegant” quarters (“if you want to seal a business deal, then just wow them with dinner in this place, which strikes that delicate balance between formal and relaxed!”). Not absolutely everyone is wowed though – in particular, the prices can seem plain “silly”. STOP PRESS: Those not wowed now includes the Michelin Man who demoted Marcus from two stars to one in October 2018.

Feedback is positive about the Galvin Bros’ year-old revamp of this well-known Art Deco dining room, lauding its “good, mainly British cuisine”, civilised location (“lovely on a sunny day, overlooking Green Park”) and “high standards” generally. Its ratings are undercut, though, by incidents of “routine” cooking, and a sense that “some of its former quirkiness was lost in the (2016) makeover”. Top Tip: “wonderful, luxurious afternoon tea”.

“Superb views over Smithfield meat market, St Paul’s and the Square Mile” can still make a trip to this spacious top-floor restaurant special. Once upon a time it was one of the top business lunch destinations for City types, but achieves no such recommendations nowadays. But while it’s “not quite as good as it used to be in its heyday, it still serves up some delicious steak”.

“A culinary beacon in Balham” that’s been “consistently excellent for 15 years” – Joe Lambert’s “outstanding local independent” provides “very seasonal” cooking of a kind that “stays current without slipping into faddishness”. “The ambience is somewhat Scandi-cool” but livened up by the “engaging and lovely staff”. Top Menu Tip: “outstanding Sunday roasts”.

“The perfect neighbourhood restaurant… I just wish it was actually in my neighbourhood!” – Bruce Poole’s “consistently exceptional” legend by Wandsworth Common is, for the 14th year, the survey’s No. 1 favourite: “it simply never lets you down”. “The attention to detail is wonderful”, but “there is nothing flashy or pretentious” about the place. Service is “delightful, chatty enough and knowledgeable”, “without ever verging on the fussy or obsequious”; and “there are always gorgeous surprises from the regularly changing, seasonal menu” of “flawless modern European cooking” (“filled with delicate flavours, but also packing a punch!”). Save a little space for the “epic cheese board”, which is arguably “the best in town”. There is little but a hymn of praise in the huge volume of reports we receive: “on our visit Gordon Ramsay was dining and even he found nothing to complain about!”

“A new star in London’s dining scene!” – Adam Handling’s “outstanding” year-old Covent Garden branch is proving just as big a smash hit as his E1 original (which, in mid 2018, moved to a new, 60-cover site on the corner of Hoxton Square, together with a bar and coffee shop). His “clever and delicious” British tapas feature “brilliant taste combinations” yet “without being prissy or overly expensive”; while the “chilled” atmosphere is “that so hard-to-achieve balance of professionalism with perfect relaxation and excitement”. Service, too, gets a big thumbs up: “top class and efficient but not obtrusive, and so friendly”. See also Belmond Cadogan Hotel.