London, International Restaurant Guide

“The original location is by far the best” – “almost Continental in feel, and opposite the back entrance of the Royal Academy in Burlington Arcade”: “a regular haunt” for Mayfair types where “a seat at the bar is the best possible place in the world”. “Always buzzy and with exceptional Bellinis, it’s best for breakfast or brunch”. On the downside, “the high prices of the food reflect the area and locale”. Its simpler spin-offs (most notably pizza joints in Soho and Shoreditch) capture a fragment of this “fun and upmarket” style.

2021 Review: “Ranks with the best beef I’ve ever had in London” is typical of the high praise earned by this smart three-year-old. “Mind you, it is right next to Smithfield” – a fact reflected in its straight-to-the-point menu – “and the maître d’ knows just the right wine to wash it down with”. It occupies an architectural gem of a townhouse once home to Sir John Betjeman.

The vaults of The Royal Exchange are to become a posh Citified food court at the hands of the Incipio group, whose other operations include Pergola on the Wharf in Docklands and White City’s Dear Grace. Open in October 2022, this is the business’s seventh venue.

With a terrace overlooking Broadgate Circle, this May 2022 newcomer is an all-day, 115-cover operation that’s part of the City’s glossy, new 100 Liverpool Street building and serves a menu of French brasserie classics such as escargots, beef tartare, coq au vin…. The name hints at its guest chef series concept; some of the country’s top culinary talents are promised as part of a programme to transform the offering each month via special dishes and ticketed events.