The Guardian
Grace Dent – long a fan of Trullo in Islington – welcomed the decision of its chef and co-owner, Conor Gadd, to recreate its “small, bespoke loveliness” close to the heart of touristy Covent Garden, in premises that are “big but the opposite of brash” and with a menu that has elements of its senior sibling’s while “perhaps erring more on the elegant but hearty side”.
“For me, the highlight was Burro’s fettuccine with duck and porcini ragu – a spin on Trullo’s classic beef shin ragu – and it’s possibly one of the best dishes currently being served in this pasta-stuffed postcode. Rich, silky, decadent, fabulous.”
Grace’s only quibble was whether central London needed yet another Italian restaurant, following recent openings that include the “superb” Vibrato in Soho (see below), the “fantastic” Locatelli at the National Gallery, and even Jamie’s Italian, “back from the dead in Leicester Square”.
Grace Dent - 2026-04-05
