British, Modern Restaurants in Surrey
1. The Glasshouse British, Modern restaurant in Kew 14 Station Pde - TW9
“A five-star experience” – this posher-than-usual neighbourhood haunt, by Kew Gardens tube station is “the lowest profile in the Chez Bruce stable”. Arguably “the dining room itself is a little uninspiring, but it has a good atmosphere when it’s full”, and the operation generally shows “similar care and professionalism” to its siblings, down to the “expert cuisine”; “well chosen, affordable wine list”; and “top cheeseboard”. After a rocky patch, long term fans feel it’s “sprung back to form”, but scores have yet to hit their old highs here, and a more representative view is that “it’s not as superlative as it was, but of very high quality nevertheless”.
2. Coppernose British, Modern restaurant in Hampton Court The Mitre, Hampton Court Road - KT8
Riverside views from a new boutique hotel will make this all-day restaurant (including afternoon tea), named after Henry VIII, a popular spot. Ronnie Kimbugwe, who worked with Gordon Ramsay at Claridges and also ran the food at the Bel and the Dragon inn group, is in charge of the food here and at 1665 (see also).
3. The Victoria Oxshott British, Modern restaurant in Oxshott High Street - KT22
The first pub for Igniting Hospitality, led by former JKS Ops Director Simon King and former Crown at Bray head chef Matt Larcombe.
4. The Clock House British, Modern restaurant in Ripley The Clock House, High Street - GU23
“A sublime experience” – Serina Drake’s “lovely” converted Georgian house is a “delightful building in a lovely village” which provides “fine dining, but without the associated pretentiousness”. Fred Clapperton’s deft but un-gimmicky cuisine is credited with many “exceptional” meals here, aided by the attitude of the “friendly and personable staff”. “It’s particularly gorgeous in the beautiful walled garden on a warm day”.
5. Sorrel British, Modern restaurant in Dorking 77 South Street - RH4
“You begin to wish you could dine on the amuse-bouches alone they are so good, and then along comes a stunning meal and contentment reigns!” – Steve Drake’s “brilliantly presented and superbly tasty cuisine” delivers consistently “wonderful and creative dishes” at his “lovely if slightly formal” 40-seater, with fans crossing the county to get here. Now two years old, it still feels like a relatively new arrival here since he relocated from Ripley. “Staff are invested in the place” too – “they have a detailed knowledge of the plates, are helpful and engaging without being fussy and intrusive”.
6. The Latymer, Pennyhill Park Hotel British, Modern restaurant in Bagshot London Road - GU19
“Everything is hushed and cushioned, dark and cocooning” in the luxurious and much-accoladed dining room of this well-known country house hotel. Matt Worswick offers both five-course (£69) and seven-course (£95) tasting menu options which are rated good or better in all reports. The experience is “VERY expensive” and there is a sceptical view that “while the food is pretty good, it’s the place that is just lovely”.
7. Steven Edwards Bingham Riverhouse British, Modern restaurant in Richmond Upon Thames 61-63 Petersham Road - TW10
“A super-pretty location” helps make the dining room of this Richmond boutique hotel – rebranded last year as the Bingham Riverhouse – “unbeatable for a special meal”. To accompany the “lovely ambience”, and “great views over the Thames”, the food is an attraction in itself: “the menu reflects the seasons well and is always delivered to a high standard”.
8. Stovell's British, Modern restaurant in Chobham 125 Windsor Road - GU24
Fernando & Kristy Stovell’s beamed Tudor farmhouse helps put Chobham on the foodie map with its “amazing” and ambitious cuisine, prepared on a wood-fired grill and with a ‘Taste of Mexico’ tasting menu, nodding to the chef’s own roots. Practically all reports last year rate the food extremely highly, and it’s a “romantic” spot too.
9. The Tudor Room, Great Fosters Hotel British, Modern restaurant in Egham Stroude Rd - TW20
“Well worth the journey out from London”, this imposing seventeenth century manor house set in extensive formal gardens boasts a very “beautiful setting”. Its small (24-cover) dining room achieved consistent ratings last year, although it’s been a time of change with Douglas Balish leaving the stoves to be replaced by Tony Parkin.
10. The Dysart Petersham British, Modern restaurant in Richmond 135 Petersham Road - TW10
“An excellent setting” is the particular plus of this smart Arts & Crafts pub, near Richmond Park, but its appeal goes well beyond its leaded windows, log fires and flagstone floors. Kenneth Culhane’s “innovative” cuisine is “very accomplished” and “often excels”, to the point that some cognoscenti consider it deserves much wider culinary recognition.
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