The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell braved the high street of a “drab Surrey town” where a newish restaurant from former Tom Kerridge sideman Nick Beardshaw “gleams and glistens like a precious oasis”, and is handily situated for both Sandown Park racecourse and the station.
With the exception of a couple of clunkily named “as seen on TV” dishes in memory of Nick’s 2023 Great British Menu victory, the menu is “spick and span and a pleasure to navigate”. Steak tartare hash brown, crumpets with Parmesan and crisp pig’s head were all on point, while a pressed game terrine was “quite glorious, rich and tasty… and not one bit like dog food, which they so often are”. Mains – pork and “the most perfect piece of cod” – were “equally fab”, while puds were “conventional and excellent”.
“For a fine bite and great service in Surrey,” William concluded, “Starling is your nicely feathered nest.”
William Sitwell - 2025-02-09
