The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell braved the high street of a “drab Surrey town” where a newish restaurant from former Tom Kerridge sideman Nick Beardshaw “gleams and glistens like a precious oasis”, and is handily situated for both Sandown Park racecourse and the station.
With the exception of a couple of clunkily named “as seen on TV” dishes in memory of Nick’s 2023 Great British Menu victory, the menu is “spick and span and a pleasure to navigate”. Steak tartare hash brown, crumpets with Parmesan and crisp pig’s head were all on point, while a pressed game terrine was “quite glorious, rich and tasty… and not one bit like dog food, which they so often are”. Mains – pork and “the most perfect piece of cod” – were “equally fab”, while puds were “conventional and excellent”.
“For a fine bite and great service in Surrey,” William concluded, “Starling is your nicely feathered nest.”
William Sitwell - 2025-02-09The Times
Jay Rayner knew he was on to a good thing at this shopfront bistro from former Kerridge’s head chef Nick Beardshaw as soon as he tasted the first dish – a “cheese crumpet of the gods”. There followed by another “beautifully crafted” snack, hash browns topped with tarragon-flecked tuna tartare; a venison dish that was “English autumn on a plate”; and a dessert of soft, intense chocolate ice cream in a pool of grassy olive oil topped with lightly salted hazelnuts – “three flavours becoming the closest of friends because they have discovered they have an unexpected amount in common”.
Located in the Surrey suburbs, Starling was packed on a weekday lunchtime, “doing the sort of business many central London restaurants could only dream of for a Friday night… Quite right too”, Jay added, pointing out that its £30 lunch costs less than most main courses on its menu, without making you feel like you’re “travelling in economy”.
“As 2025 is hurtling towards its conclusion, it doesn’t feel to early to describe Starling as one of my picks of the year.”
Jay Rayner - 2025-11-02
