Greater London, International Restaurant Guide

“A well composed panoply of flavours from Southeast Asia” – curry puffs, crab dumplings, lobster, ox cheek Penang curry – have won a loyal following for Peter Lloyd’s South Bank fixture, and over time fans “have become enamoured, and no longer mourn the loss of RSJ” (which preceded on the site for over 20 years). “Nothing is extraordinary, but it is our current first choice pre the National Theatre”. He must be doing something right, as expansion is coming fast, with a sibling to open in July 2023 on the former site of Cantina del Ponte, RIP, with a large terrace overlooking Tower Bridge; and another in Islington later in the year.

“Incredible flower displays” add to the airy and gracious style of this comfortable dining room, within the plush five star near Embankment station. Partly because of the fame of Kerridge’s next door, it has struggled over the years to raise its profile, but can be a handy option for a stately, high-quality West End setting. Top Top – in particular, “the set lunch is excellent value”.

2023 Review: “Love it… I always feel like a spy when I drink there…” – London’s oldest wine bar (est. 1890), near Embankment tube, is worth a visit for its “great interior” alone, with ancient brick-lined vaults, but it also boasts one of the capital’s biggest outside terraces. You no longer queue for the cold cuts, cheese and pies – they bring them to you with waiter service. The “excellent selection of wines” is by far the greater attraction.

“Is there a better way to spend the afternoon?”, query fans of the “beautiful” foyer of this famous hotel – “a wonderful room with the piano playing and where the sandwiches just keep coming!” Supporters say “nothing can compare to the high level of cakes” and that service is “above par” too. Ratings are capped, though, by one or two more cautious reports, from those who “were expecting more of the tea” (too weak) and/or the victuals. When it comes to the music, there’s also some debate – “I hated the Disney tunes being played on the piano, although admittedly I was tempted to stand and join in when it moved on to Les Mis!”

A mega new hotel for London sees the Old War Office on Whitehall – in which Winston Churchill made many of the most important decisions of World War II – being taken over by Raffles, no less (their first venture in Europe) and the Hinduja Group, to open in late 2023 as a new 125 bedroom property. It will have nine new restaurants, of which we list the five most notable individually: Café Lapérouse, Endo Kazutoshi, Langosteria, Mauro Colagreco and Paper Moon (see also). Other options include Mauro’s Table and a fine high-ceilinged brasserie called ‘Saison’ – which fall under the Colagreco umbrella – as well as The Drawing Room (lounge and all-day dining) and Guards Bar.

Iré Hassan-Odukale and Jeremy Chan have won huge renown for their ‘haute’ interpretation of West African culinary themes, but this year saw very unsettled reports. Perhaps, in part, this owes to the disruption of a move to 180 The Strand, although the copper-hued, minimalist design there isn’t wholly at odds with the look and feel of the former location in St James’s Market. But to a large extent, this year’s themes are a continuation of last year’s; and complaints that seemed to set in after they jacked up their prices following all the Michelin and ‘World’s 50 Best’ accolades. True, some reports do acknowledge an “outstanding gastronomic experience” from the blind tasting menu which sees jollof rice and plantain jostling with luxury ingredients, foams and emulsions. But too many are mixed: “we had a couple of stunners, but a dish that was so bitter it was unpleasant. So expensive and given the unpredictability it makes Core look like a bargain…”; “really did not enjoy this. Dull atmosphere, combinations of food which just did not work and service not firing on all cylinders. First time I’ve ever not enjoyed a two-star restaurant…”; “was expecting something so special: it wasn’t!”

This wood-panelled French brasserie with an “excellent fixed-price menu” of Gallic classics is particularly “useful in the location” – close to the Imperial War Museum in Kennington – and provides its own entertainment in the form of its upstairs jazz club.

2021 Review: “Brilliant value… market bustle… great modern menu – we love it”, declare fans of this “upmarket” wine bar with (mainly Italian) small plates – “another good option for a great tapas meal in Borough Market”. It took the name of the greengrocer who previously occupied the site.

A “Covent Garden staple” for 33 years, this “bustling French bistro with packed tables but speedy service” serves “good-value, reliably cooked traditional Gallic fare” that belies its somewhat touristy looks. Top Tip – “a wide-ranging menu and the set menus and special deals add to its appeal; and it’s a good choice for families with children”.

“A unique experience!” – “For a dinner with a twist, sit ‘outside’ within Borough Market and enjoy a set menu with wine pairing” at Tomas Lidakevicius’s offbeat venture, attached to a greengrocer’s stall. “You’ve no need to choose anything and everything is good”: “the lovely setting helps for sure, but the great food from a tasting menu with seasonal veg as its centrepiece speaks for itself”. “Loved it!”.

“On more than one occasion we have observed someone ‘popping the question’ here!” – the “magical” setting “never fails to impress” at this Covent Garden oasis, yet again voted London’s No.1 venue for romance in our annual diners’ poll. “Sitting in the conservatory is a joy, especially in good weather when the retractable roof is open” and its “most beautiful interior courtyard is tailormade for a date”. “The largely Provençal and Tuscan cuisine is good but the star of this show is the magnificent wine list, with choices from around the world and prices to suit all budgets. The only recommendation is to read the wine list at home in advance, otherwise you’ll spend the first hour ignoring your date!”.

With its “unusual and interesting wines” (only 10 cases of each one are ordered, to ensure a steady turnover), “well complemented by delicious small bites to eat”, this is “the wine bistro you want in your street”. The fact that they can combine this with a “great, busy and bustling neighbourhood vibe in the middle of Covent Garden” is “simply astonishing”, making it both “a pre-theatre restaurant and a destination in its own right”.

“Ramuel Scully gets flavour out of ingredients like no one else” at his ambitious St James’s Market fixture, where he and his team serve a “wacky and interesting menu based on ferments and underused ingredients” from their open kitchen. Its ratings are not as stratospheric as when it first opened, due to the odd doubt that “the quality of foodstuffs can be lost in the plethora of flavourings”. But the balance of feedback this year was highly enthusiastic: “it’s my London go-to” with a “very different menu that changes enough to warrant a return”.

Now in its 21st year, this South African-owned duo in Farringdon and London Bridge thrive on their “good basics”, including “delicious steaks” and a “lovely wine list” with a focus on South African vintages. Saffa-style dried meats and a dedicated cheese room complete the deal.

Now in its 21st year, this South African-owned duo in Farringdon and London Bridge thrive on their “good basics”, including “delicious steaks” and a “lovely wine list” with a focus on South African vintages. Saffa-style dried meats and a dedicated cheese room complete the deal.

Sit at the bar where there’s “Prosecco on tap” and hang with the Mayfair glam crowd at this “always buzzy” and “professional” Italian brasserie in Burlington Gardens, at the back of the Royal Academy: “a favourite for some good people watching”. Nowadays part of Soho House, “there’s something for everyone on the menu” and it’s a favoured lunch spot for local business types. On the downside, prices are high, the food is “average” and service can be so-so. (Reports on its Soho ‘Pizza Bar’ spin-off and City branches are few and far between).

For a “really good-value meal” (including a “pretty decent steak-frites”) “in the heart of the West End” it’s hard to beat this Soho brasserie. “The simplicity of the menu” and “wide variety of choices” mean “there’s something for everyone”, so it’s “a real go-to”, especially for its set-price lunch or pre-theatre deals.

2021 Review: “Set upstairs in the Café Royal” on its mezzanine level, this glitzy dining space is branded for French chef Laurent Tourondel. After its opening in mid-2018, both Giles Coren of The Times and Jay Rayner of The Guardian lined up to tear the place to shreds (“howling”, “shameful pricing”,…). Survey feedback regarding its steak and sushi formula is a little thin on which to rate a place of this calibre, but such reports as we have are, by contrast, upbeat: despite the odd warning of “not-so-experienced service” or a “pricey wine list”, they suggest it’s “very enjoyable”.