Esher, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

This Surrey branch of The Ivy’s stylish national brasserie offshoot is an “incredibly popular” sort of place, where the most appealing location to eat is the Orangery. From providing one reporter’s “worst dining experience of the year” to another’s “dazzling delight”, it continues to split opinion, but the majority verdict is that “the atmosphere and ambience (which “exude fun and enjoyment”) excel more than the food” (which is “acceptable but nothing special”).

“A favourite in the Wimbledon Village/Common area!” – this Georgian pub is co-owned by TV chef Paul Merrett and his Jolly Pubs group (which includes the Victoria in East Sheen). Aside from the odd nod to cheaper pub-grub dishes, most of the menu is somewhat more ambitious bistro-style fare.

“For a jolly night out with the girls”, these “warm and luxurious” west London haunts are just the job. An “extensive list of cocktails” is key to their allure – “the food is not the main attraction although it’s perfectly acceptable”. Lorraine Angliss (who also owns Annie’s and Little Bird) opened the Richmond original in 2009; its Chiswick sibling followed in 2022.

Proximity to Richmond Park – a large terrace for sunny days – and a comfortable, attractive interior help justify the ongoing inclusion of this eighteenth-century Fuller’s pub, near Sheen Gate. In other respects, its ratings remain resolutely ordinary.

“Worth the rattling ride down on the Northern line!”, says a fan from E18 of this neighbourhood spot, “tucked away in the relatively unlikely environs of Tooting”. The “clever food” centres on brined half-chicken portions (with crispy battered cauliflower as the veggie alternative) plus a supporting cast of starters, small plates and puddings – results are “outstanding”.

This longstanding “local favourite”, tucked away on the Chiswick-Acton border, benefits from a characterful Art Deco interior and “amazing secret garden” out back. The “efficient and friendly staff” serve a Mediterranean-influenced menu that “changes frequently to reflect seasonal ingredients”.

“A very good neighbourhood gastropub” – this Hammersmith backstreet boozer is no longer No. 1 on TripAdvisor (as it was several years ago), to the great relief of the local residents. The relatively new management are “really helpful” and the “no-nonsense pub grub” is much jazzier than under previous regimes. Top Menu Tip – “Sunday lunch is very good with lots of families happily munching into a roast”.

In terms of delivering “really decent” food on the King’s Road (a rarity) and “an amazing Sunday roast”, the three-year-old revamp of this “beautiful” early Victorian Chelsea pub must be accounted a success, and it becomes “BUSY!”. If the backers were not JKS Restaurants in partnership with Kitchen Table’s James Knappett one would say ‘job done’, but by the standards of such megastar restaurateurs, the result is good – not outstanding.

This elegant 1853 tavern near Chelsea Physic Garden makes “an excellent local, if with prices befitting its location” and a menu of quite ambitious pub grub, following its transformation by Jack Greenall (of the Lancashire brewing dynasty). He now owns a select trio of west London pubs having acquired the Walmer Castle in Notting Hill and The Carpenter’s Arms in Hammersmith last year.

This “always entertaining”, flower-bedecked 1750 tavern near Notting Hill Gate “still scores bang for the buck” with the Thai menu it has served for more than 25 years in a buzzy conservatory to the back of the main pub. It’s lost some of its renown for exceptional value in recent times, but it remains a somewhat eccentric one-off, whose popularity makes booking essential in the evening. (The pub was renamed to honour the wartime leader, whose grandparents apparently supped here).

Tom Conran’s lively Bayswater favourite celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, and remains “a wonderful spot for a long lunch, starting with Guinness and oysters”. There has been no need to update the Irish pub theme, which is as fashionable as ever (as witnessed in the recent launch of The Devonshire off Piccadilly Circus). The artless cooking is “foodie” but straightforward, with seafood (oysters, whelks, cockles, crab or a pint-of-prawns) the top pick. Top Tip – tiny, cute first-floor dining room, with a separate menu.

“The theatrical elements are sometimes ridiculous, but it‘s very unlikely you would go away unhappy”, according to fans of culinary boffin Heston Blumenthal’s Knightsbridge dining room. Here the unique culinary approach is not his Fat Duck’s ‘molecular gastronomy’, but to re-package recipes researched from Tudor and Georgian cookbooks for the modern era. Most famous is the “sublime meat fruit” (a kind of pâté made to look like a satsuma) but recent menus include the likes of “‘Ragoo of Pigs Ear on Toast’ (c.1727)” and other concoctions. At its best “it’s a great and memorable experience” and one for which Michelin have awarded a coveted two stars. But there’s perennially a huge disconnect between this accolade and its performance in our annual diners’ poll. Even fans concede it’s “hugely expensive”; and year in year out there’s a very significant proportion who are “incredibly disappointed” with the food; or who feel “it’s trading on one or two exceptional dishes at eye-watering prices that don’t match what’s on offer”. By day in particular, this large chamber is a “beautiful” space, with Hyde Park glimpses, particularly from the tables near the windows, while by night the ambience can be more “clinical”, not helped by incidents of “charmless” or “inattentive” service. If Heston were not world famous, the tyre man might have taken away at least one star here a long time ago.

This “gastropub of real standing” (est. 2010) a short walk from Vauxhall is just the place to “get your laughing gear on some excellent modern British fare”. “It looks like a pub” and is a “proper South London boozer at the front, where you can have a quiet pint”, but “you don’t judge the book by the cover” – in the back is a “well thought-through carnivore’s paradise” (“go hungry for big plates of usually rich food”), with a “good selection of wines by the glass”. “Booking is obligatory”, although not quite as difficult as its more famous stablemate the Anchor & Hope, close to Waterloo and the South Bank. Top Menu Tip – “offaly tasty options not easily found elsewhere”.

“A wonderful room that’s very light and with well-spaced tables” – this “quintessential” traditional hotel dining room, just around the corner from Buckingham Palace, is well-suited to a special occasion and is popular for business, romance or “a pricey family treat”. Opened in 1910 by Otto Goring, it is part of the only five star hotel in London still to be run by the family who opened it (Jeremy Goring is the current CEO), which has always lent the whole establishment a more personal style than its corporate competitors. Historically, the dining room’s British fare has been more notable for its traditional values than its finesse, and diners in our survey acclaim it as “reliable” if rather “undemanding”: perfect for traditionalists, but less ‘haute’ than its Michelin star might suggest. Breakfast, for example, is a big attraction here, as is one of the “best afternoon teas in the UK”. When it comes to lunch and dinner service, dishes like “first class lobster” excel. The old school service is well-rated but “not what it was” a few years ago, in the opinion of some regular guests. In May 2024 the space reopened, complete with an opulent new interior, care of Russell Sage Studio and a new kitchen for Executive Chef Graham Squire: hopefully all the new kit for the kitchen will mean this year’s food rating is on the cautious side.

“Only for cheese lovers… and that’s me!” – the clue is in the name at Mathew Carver’s “fun and different” venue – a 96ft custom-built, double-decker barge permanently moored in Paddington Basin, which showcases “a great selection of British cheeses with interesting pairings”. “Out-of-town visitors love it”. Top Menu Tip – “The curried cheese curds are amazing”.

A post-War gem in Westminster, this “bright, Formica-tabled institution serves old-fashioned greasy-spoon fare” and is a place of retro pilgrimage nowadays. Don’t be put off by the “intimidating queue, which moves reasonably quickly – and there’s always a table miraculously free in the end”. “We returned for the first time in six years and it’s still as great as it ever was…” – in fact, it’s barely changed since opening in 1946.