Esher, Italian Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: A short walk from Sloane Street, this elegantly panelled Belgravia dining room is part of a luxurious five-star hotel. Perhaps because it’s tucked away in such an expensive ’hood, it doesn’t generate a huge volume of survey feedback, but such as there is says it successfully sets a superior standard of Italian cuisine.

“The original Salt Yard in W1 used to be one of London’s best new tapas restaurants” – but it opened over 15 years ago and “the subsequent roll-out of the brand as multiple branches” under Urban Pubs & Bars “has seen quality drop quite a lot”. As “a pleasant option for well-produced Med-inspired dishes”, they maintain a fair number of fans, if without the pizzazz once conjured by the name. The year-old branch near the entrance to Westfield is the highest rated, and the newest near Borough Market is also seen as “a handy addition to the group”.

We’re in two minds about the inclusion of this former star of London’s tapas scene, which generates very little feedback nowadays despite a prime mid-Soho site. Fans do still laud its “well-crafted dishes and Spanish wines”, but others say “the food has that ‘here’s one I made earlier’ quality. OK, but not very exciting”.

“Feeling like a serious step up from your run-of-the-mill Italian, but not breaking the bank” – this unusual and stylish venture is a spin-off from the Stafford Hotel. There’s a Sicilian focus to the menu and the food is “absolutely delicious”. “Booths make it a great spot for a business lunch – intimate enough to be quiet in a bustling restaurant”, with very attentive service. Top Menu Tip – “dangerously delectable focaccia”.

“Don’t be put off by the tourist location or the gold frontage” if you visit the flagship branch of this successful Italian chain near Piccadilly Circus (which is due to double in size over 2023). For a national group, it and its siblings deliver a surprisingly high-quality formula that mixes “a great range of Venetian-style small plates” with “friendly and efficient” service and “bright and vibrant interiors” which create a “wonderful and buzzing atmosphere”. Top Tip – “super for pre-theatre eating”.

“Don’t be put off by the tourist location or the gold frontage” if you visit the flagship branch of this successful Italian chain near Piccadilly Circus (which is due to double in size over 2023). For a national group, it and its siblings deliver a surprisingly high-quality formula that mixes “a great range of Venetian-style small plates” with “friendly and efficient” service and “bright and vibrant interiors” which create a “wonderful and buzzing atmosphere”. Top Tip – “super for pre-theatre eating”.

“A great all-rounder in St James’s”, particularly popular amongst a well-heeled SW1 business clientele – this “reassuring” veteran provides the “careful service” of “no frills”, “traditional” dishes and “has been going for years” – since 1945 in fact – “and long may it last”. But even those for whom it’s a favourite note that “you pay the price when the bill comes”.

“The warmth of the welcome and quality of the food can come as something of a surprise at such a central and well-known location” as this West End branch (just north of Pall Mall) of the national group, created by Sicilian-born Carlo Distefano and now with over 20 locations nationwide. Perhaps it’s the “lovely atmosphere for either a business or social lunch or dinner” that’s its key strength, but all reports suggest the “great and varied menu” is also “consistently good”.

“The personal touch is invaluable” at Giuseppe & Pamela Turi’s “thriving” and “very confident” Italian stalwart, which “has gone from strength to strength since moving from Putney to Pimlico in 2015, and is always full” (often of long-term customers, who “happily make the trek” into the centre of town). “If Italian wine is your thing, this is the place to go”: Giuseppe’s all-Italian list is a “masterpiece in its own right” and even if “a ton of money is sometimes required, the vintages are not expensive for what they are”. To match it: “refined cooking, with classics, specials, and seasonal variations, reflecting the team’s heritage”. It’s a “grown-up” and “very confident experience, without bowing to fashion” – “the Turis be found at the restaurant every day, and there is always a smile to welcome you”. BREAKING NEWS – In August 2023, the Turis announced their retirement, thus rendering the above entry otiose. A month later, just before we went to press, experienced restaurateur, Dominic Ford, and Liberty Wines owner, David Gleave, were announced as the new patrons. Much of the team remains in place, as does the cellar. But – as our read feedback clearly demonstrates – this whole enterprise has always been a supremely personal one and the Turis will be a hard act to follow. We’ve maintained its rating (but taking service down a notch, reflecting the very personal style of the founders).

“Still as popular with its regular clientele as ever” – this “civilised old-favourite” near Sloane Square “doesn’t change much”, to the relief of its massive, silver-haired following (“you could do away with the menu, as all the customers know exactly what they will order before they arrive. It’ll be the same as they’ve been ordering for the last 25 years!”). The traditional, “comfort-Italian” food is “reliable”, but it’s the “extremely courteous service and wonderful greeting” that really carries the day. Top Menu Tip – “best calves’ liver in London”.

2023 Review: Near Harrods, this Italian of 35 years’ standing is recently part of the San Carlo brand, but fits well into the glamorous, traditional mould of that Manchester-based group. “The food can be excellent, but is also erratic at times.”

“Handily located near the Royal Opera House”, this converted pub serves Spanish and Italian-style small plates of “food that’s just a bit better than its local competition” in the heart of Covent Garden. It is “not the best of the Salt Yard chain, but good for a quick pre-show meal”.

“Still a special place even though it’s moved site” – this veteran Soho Italian was evicted from its previous Poland Street home over Covid, and found these new digs last year. It still “exudes old world charm” and has retained many of the former “delightful” staff, who are really at the heart of this “unpretentious” experience as much as the “reliable Umbrian/Italian cooking”.

These “upscalish Italians” – part of an international chain – serve pizza, pasta and other lighter dishes, featuring the trademark ingredient. It can be that the “quality of the food is a pleasant surprise”; they inspired nothing but positive feedback this year.

Retired maître d’ Tony and his team created an atmosphere that was “mad, crowded, noisy yet still great fun” at this fifty-year-old Trattoria (est. 1974), long known for providing relatively good value for somewhere not far from the back door of Harrods. In February 2023, it was taken over by The Thesleff Group, whose press release promises ‘a revitalised energy and subtle changes’ to this old groover, which includes a trendified menu. No reports from the old regulars as yet on the new regime so we’ve left it un-rated for the time being.

“Terrific ingredients, cleverly but unfussily combined” has long been the hallmark of Sally Clarke’s “impeccably run restaurant” in Notting Hill, which has been at the cutting edge of promoting seasonal, Californian-inspired cuisine since 1984. “It’s on the pricey side, but quality remains superb”; the setting is “romantic”; and the service, from a loyal and seemingly well-looked-after contingent of staff is “excellent, all overseen by Sally herself”. The “marvellous” wine list has an “unusual emphasis on North American wines” and some “reasonably priced alternatives to famous names”. Top Tip – “the good-value daily lunch set menu is a fantastic way to try this restaurant out”.

Inspired by La Dolce Vita lifestyle (indeed, there used to be an accompanying apparel resort-wear brand), this small Italian group strives to evoke the retro glamour of the 1960s ‘jet set’. There’s some enthusiasm for them amongst reporters, but a recognition that the food is “nice but not exceptional”: “I had an excellent martini. But the dishes were either overly seasoned or (the salad) not dressed at all”.