Bristol, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: “Better food than expected” is to be discovered in this striking, light-filled (perhaps “noisy”) space – part of the recent £25m renovation of the UK’s oldest theatre, dating back to, er, see if you can guess. Open all day until an hour after the last evening performance, it aims to be a community hub, serving a menu devised by head chef Coco Barone (ex-Glassboat and Rosemarino). There are also pre-theatre deals, obvs.

In the unusual and attractive setting of a former river-police station, “this long-established dockside restaurant still continues to offer value and quality, despite the change in ownership a few years ago (to Youngs)”, although nowadays in a much less foodie vein than in its heyday over 20 years ago. As of a 2018 refit, diners can opt for the Pontoon Bar, a popular brunch/lunch haunt, while upstairs “pre-theatre meals are also popular”.

This August 2020 newcomer in the docks replaces the long-standing Servernshed brasserie and aims for the style of a ‘relaxed lounge and pub’ while serving a menu of staples. No reports as yet, but – with the splendid waterside location and outside terrace of its predecessor – it sounds like a similar package for a relaxed bite.

“An extensive tasting menu with amazing flavours” awaits diners at this understated, bare-walls-and-stripped-wood venue near the docks. Adventurous chefs Jamie Randall and locally born Olivia Barry both worked for some top London chefs (Galvin Brothers and Angela Harnett among others) before setting up on their own account in more laid-back Bristol.

Elliott Lidstone, ex-of the acclaimed L'Ortolan and Hackney gastroboozer The Empress, upped sticks to the West Country for this tiny (14-cover) venture in a pair of shipping containers belonging to Bristol harbourside's Cargo development. His produce-led British menu is “always a winner”, with equal amounts of commentary dedicated to the “exceptional wine list”.

Vegetables take the lead roles without edging meat and fish off-stage at this “fun” dockside container venue with a nice terrace for decent weather. It’s from Josh Eggleston’s Eat Drink Bristol Fashion team, led here by chef Rob Howell and his partner Megan Oakley (both ex-Pony & Trap), and its creative small-plates approach leads to “interesting and delicious” eating.

Chef Zak Hitchman has taken over the culinary reins from founder Peter Sanchez-Iglesias at Bristol’s brightest foodie star. And his ‘Casamia 2.0’ – the new, August 2020 iteration of this famous property (sometimes cited, including by us, as the UK’s best) – receives a mixed reception from reporters. Covers are down from 32 to 18, street art and bespoke projections enliven the walls and there’s a new sound system – making it “a joyous temple to food and inventiveness, with a fun club-like atmosphere” to those who vibe with its funky new guise. The quality of the cuisine is not in doubt. “The menu is brevity itself, giving no clue as to the clever interaction of the main listed ingredient and its supporting cast. And what is so impressive is not just the combinations of ingredients, producing visually attractive and novel taste experiences, but also the way dishes that have had similar predecessors are brought up to new, even more striking levels by the clever intensification of various elements.” But even some big fans note that “it’s a fine line between religion and cult, and the slightly messianic service perhaps comes down on the wrong side”. In some cases, the approach seems to verge on the confrontational (“we were told not to return if we do not like the music blasting away…”; “they did not allow for our dietary concerns, and if we couldn’t eat a course told us to skip it – a draconian and arrogant disregard for hospitality”). And then there’s the pricing which seems “hiked” and ever-more “greedy”. Even one or two rating the food “outstanding” say that as a result they “won’t be going back”. “Pity, because the food is just so enjoyably inventive and the atmosphere so unlike any of the other food temples in the UK.”

This “wonderful steakhouse (which also does an exceptional Sunday lunch)” was opened by former Jamie Oliver chef-director Sam Elliott three years ago in a spruced-up Victorian warehouse, opposite St Mary Redcliffe church, and serves impressive cuts of West Country beef displayed in chiller cabinets, alongside vegetables and fruit from is own farm. It’s already made a big impact on the local dining scene, and has spawned a spinoff in Cardiff.

One of the country’s more eccentric restaurant settings – a Victorian lido’s viewing gallery whose plate-glass windows overlook a heated open-air pool, where swimmers plough their watery furrows in all weathers. Feedback has dwindled since its early years but continues to rate it well.

Replacing the popular Birch (RIP), this “very friendly local eatery” is an October 2020 newcomer that started life as a deli and then morphed into a restaurant with blackboard menu. It’s the work of Pegs Quinn, formerly head chef at Bianchis, and with stints at Pasta Ripiena and London’s famous River Café under his belt. National press critics Tom Parker Bowles and Jay Rayner both have given it rave reviews, comparing it favourably to the famous Thames-side Italian. Our feedback is scarcely less enthusiastic: “as well as being a top place to eat, they also do the best takeaway pizzas for miles around!”

2019 Review: “What a lovely place” – this Victorian pumping station in Hotwells that once powered Bristol harbour’s hydraulic bridges was converted into a gastropub twelve years ago by Toby Gritten, formerly of local landmark Bell’s Diner. A perfect spot for a meal, a drink – or “just a cup of tea”. “Downstairs is a great bar, but it can be noisy, so if you want to eat, try the upstairs restaurant”.

The team from the former Pony & Trap in Chew Magna – nowadays The Pony Chew Valley – opened for the first time in Bristol with this new venture in May 2021 (rather late in the day to inspire survey feedback). The menu features dishes cooked over open fire from chef Hugo Harvey. But the ‘bistro’ appellation seems a bit of a misnomer, as the only evening option (there is a cut-down lunch alternative) is a 4-course menu and you need to pay up-front if you book in advance (which is the presumption).

2020 Review: “Elegant and imaginative cuisine” and an excellent standard of service again won nothing but rave reviews for James Wilkins & Christine Vayssade’s small restaurant in a Redland sidestreet, whose ambiance was “greatly improved” a couple of years ago “with a new feature street-art wall and intimate décor”. But in October 2019, the pair put it up for sale in order to pursue an opportunity overseas: hence we’ve removed the rating for now.

“Unbelievable value for the most sensational food produced in a minuscule kitchen”, agree fans of Jan Ostle & Mary Wilson’s hyper-local Redland bistro. “Three cheers for this welcoming local”, with “very friendly, efficient, knowledgeable service in simple surroundings”. The kitchen relies on “home-grown veg and local suppliers to produce the most brilliant mixture of innovative dishes, textures and tastes, all presented on interesting china and put together in a relaxed but oh-so-professional manner”.

“Recently opened of all places in a retirement village” – a modern development of 64 apartments in Redland – “but open to the public”: this September 2020 newcomer is run by local caterers CleverChefs and occupies a light-filled space with open kitchen overlooking an arboretum garden. Open from breakfast and throughout the day, it wins strong early feedback for “assured cooking at reasonable prices”.

Opened in June 2021, this tastefully revamped old pub is the work of the Eggleton family – the team behind The Pony & Trap (now known as The Pony Chew Magna). The offering, realised by chef Jordan Meagher, “centres around proper ‘pub classics’”.