London Kensington Restaurant Guide

One of London’s original beacons of “modern Japanese sushi dining” to those in-the-know, Yasuhiro Minemo & Shinya Ikeda’s surprisingly under-the-radar venture has lit up a Kensington backstreet for 14 years – it can be “hard to find as it doesn’t look like a restaurant and the only sign is a blackboard, but it’s well worth it”. “Focused on quality ingredients and an authentic approach” – it’s far from inexpensive but consistently inspires “outstanding” feedback from its fans. It has spawned two offshoots: Ocean House in the old Brompton Library near South Kensington tube; and Sushi Kamon in Arcade Food Hall on Oxford Street.

What does it say about the culinary tastes of the British middle classes that this spin-off chain, with about 40 locations based on the original Theatreland icon, has been such a rip-roaring success? True, there’s some “great people-watching” at the “always buzzing” Chelsea Garden venue (which has one of SW3’s best gardens). And, without doubt, those branches in Kensington, Tower Bridge and Kingston also particularly stand out amongst the rest for their “super atmosphere”. In general though, the knock-off look of their locations “isn’t a patch on the original on West Street, yet pretends to be exactly the same”. And when it comes to their brasserie dishes: although its many followers tout them as “acceptable, albeit nothing special”, their rating-average identifies them as “underwhelming tick-box fare”; all offered by service that’s very “indifferent”. And yet they are “always busy”! In June 2024, it was announced that billionaire Richard Caring had successfully sold his entire Ivy restaurants stake. Now that he is laughing all the way to the bank, it will be interesting to see if ratings reverse, continue or deepen their southward trend.

“A showcase for good Japanese cuisine” – the first-floor restaurant in Kensington’s Japan House cultural centre wins particular praise for its “lovely Japanese afternoon tea”. Fans also say it’s “consistently excellent” for more substantial meals – with a “sake menu that’s worth a visit in its own right” – but it can also “feel expensive” for what is delivered.

“Feeling like a neighbourhood restaurant but with the Michelin-standard cooking you would expect from Phil Howard (a partner in the management)”: this “charming venue” – “tucked down a side street away from Kensington’s main drag” – remains something of a “hidden star”. But even those who feel it continues to “excel quietly” can feel that the “low-key” setting, though “comfy”, “needs an injection of energy”. Top Tip – “the £34 fixed-price lunch is a steal”.

A “buzzy” atmosphere and “welcoming service” are the strong suits of this “expanding group”, with 16 branches in London and another handful nearby. While nobody disputes that they’re “lovely to sit in” and offer “value for money”, the “Middle-Eastern-inspired cooking” divides opinion, with some reporters “pleasantly surprised by the tasty food” and others bemoaning “underwhelming” dishes that “sound better than they taste”.

“You nearly always have to queue for a table – often for at least an hour – but the atmosphere is amazing and the food is worth the wait” at Shamil & Kavi Thakrar’s unbelievably successful chain: again, the most commented-on business in our annual diners’ poll, which has stormed the capital since it first opened in Covent Garden in 2010. Outlets in Canary Wharf and Battersea Power Station opened in late 2024, bringing the total in London to seven, and each branch has its own intriguing character, with the unifying theme being a homage to the Irani cafés of post-war Bombay. “Very much a well-oiled machine, there is little sign of any drop-off in quality as the group expands”, while “for such large places the brilliant service is remarkably friendly and efficient”. Meanwhile, the “deeply flavoursome and satisfying” menu has introduced Londoners to “authentic and delicious dishes that aren’t just another copycat Indian selection”, with such “zingy and exciting flavours”. And morning-time in London will never be the same again, since the advent of their “great Anglo-Indian breakfasts”. All-in-all, “the whole approach is inclusive and exciting”, “it’s always buzzy and fun too”; and “overall and for the price point you can’t go wrong!”. Top Menu Tips: “the black dal is to die for!”; “superb okra fries”; “the roomali roti is sublime”; “the lamb chops are excellent”; “Chicken Ruby is dreamy”. In the mornings, “the unfailing Bacon naan is a thing of poetry”; “chilli cheese toast hits the spot every time”, and “drink the lemon ginger and honey chai”.

“Not so much a gastropub as a restaurant attached to a stylish pub/wine bar” – this upscale local, tucked away off Kensington High Street, has been gradually transformed over 25 years by two generations of the Staples family. The food (which according to the website ‘maintains the sensibility of a British gastropub, combined with techniques and flavours from the 21st century’) is “consistently reliable”, backed up by “excellent service and a very warm welcome”.

“One never tires of Il Portico”, say fans of this “lovely local Italian” with “an authentic feel” opposite the Design Museum, which has been run by the Chiavarini family for more than 50 years. “Everything is served with enthusiasm” and “if prices are a bit on the high side, it’s because of the proximity of some very classy residential areas”.

“Exquisite, very subtle spicing, generous portions and extremely attentive and good-humoured service” all help retain a very loyal following for this high-quality Indian, which has occupied this grand, converted banking hall near Kensington Gardens for 25 years now. “Although not cheap, its cost/quality ratio is one of the best in central London”.

This well-known pub makes the most of its stunning location in a Regency square in Kensington, with a “lovely terrace at the front for summer evenings” – and (if you can bag one) “the tables at the back are not too noisy even when the place is packed” (ie. always). Apparently it is Piers Morgan’s favourite pub, where he has invited everyone from Meghan Markle to the celeb cronies he entertains at his annual Christmas drinks.

“Fresh-cooked, cheap Chinese food in good portions – and in an area of overpriced restaurants” – means fans are “so glad we have Stick & Bowl”: a no-frills canteen that’s been a landmark of Kensington High Street for over 30 years now; and where a curry with rice or noodle dish will set you back well under a tenner. Top Menu Tip – “the pork belly is to die for”.

“As good as anywhere in town, never mind the views” – “amazing!”; this deluxe Chinese dining room at the top of a five-star hotel in Kensington remains an unusually impressive all-rounder. It’s “best to go in daylight, because of the panoramic view of Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park” and offers “a most professional and delightful experience from start to finish”. Thankfully, this includes the exceptional Chinese cuisine. “The Peking Duck, ordered in advance, is the best ever” and “dim sum is special” too: “cannot be beaten for quality or presentation!”. Top Menu Tip – “you could pass over the pre-order duck and concentrate instead on working your way through other options, such as the Gong Bao king prawns with cashew nuts and chilli (brilliant) and the beef with black pepper sauce. Not to forget the delicious range of teas, which is topped up regularly”.

This gorgeous, seventeenth-century former aristocrats’ ballroom has a stunning location – actually within Holland Park – but has defied various previous attempts to create a successful restaurant. And, two years on, it remains unclear whether George Bukhov-Weinstein and Ilya Demichev – the duo behind Goodman, Burger & Lobster and Wild Tavern – have done better, despite their lavish revamp. Even one reporter “very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the food” thought it “pricey”. More common are those who find it “mediocre in every respect, apart from the beautiful setting” or say it’s “just toooo expensive”.

This “always entertaining”, flower-bedecked 1750 tavern near Notting Hill Gate “still scores bang for the buck” with the Thai menu it has served for more than 25 years in a buzzy conservatory to the back of the main pub. It’s lost some of its renown for exceptional value in recent times, but it remains a somewhat eccentric one-off, whose popularity makes booking essential in the evening. (The pub was renamed to honour the wartime leader, whose grandparents apparently supped here).

Near the Albert Hall, on a quirky site built in the Venetian Gothic style to please Queen Victoria, this “typically bustling family-run Italian” opened in 1967, and offers a “standard menu, with properly cooked pasta” and dependable pizza. “Kids are really well looked after, just like being in Italy” – as Princess Diana found, when she used to take Wills and Harry out for a treat from nearby Kensington Palace.

“You can’t go wrong if you order tonkotsu” at this ramen group from Tak Tokumine of the Japan Centre – the noodles and 12-hour pork bone broth are “authentic” and some of the “best in town”. The venues can be “cramped”, and “the constant banging of a drum to indicate dishes being ready can grate”.