Hove Restaurant Guide

“Creative but delicious unfussy food and excellent wines” set the tone at this wine bar/restaurant opposite Hove Town Hall from industry veterans Paul Morgan and Sam Pryor, which has developed steadily over the past decade. About 30 bottles (including sparkling wines and sherries) usually available by the glass, along with a wide range produced nearby in Sussex. Top Tip – “Sunday sessions, set menus with wine tasting, are a particularly good way to spend an afternoon here”.

The founder/owners “never put a foot wrong” at this British bistro in Hove, providing “outstanding food and service in attractive and comfortable surroundings”. Local hospitality trio Faye & James Thompson and Rob Maynard launched the venue in 2019 and it “has gone from strength to strength”, with innovations like the monthly ‘Sunday Lunch Club’, showcasing ingredients at their peak. Last summer American actor Kyle MacLachlan – Dale Cooper in cult classic ‘Twin Peaks’ – was a surprise visitor, as a thank-you to James for putting his Pursued by Bear wine on Wild Flor’s list!

Sui generis boozer whose “first-class seafood” (notably the “astonishingly great shellfish at great prices”) comes as a bit of a shock given the suburban setting by a school; add in “lovely service” and “good beer too” – the in-house Larrikin which is offered on tap is brewed in the basement – and it’s “a gem” by absolutely all accounts.

“Definitely worth the trip to the seaside for this cool place” – Stephen Edwards “seems to have thought through the all-round experience” at this converted former bank in Hove, which he opened in 2017: “from the wait staff, to the feeling in the room and of course the food and drink” it is “hard to put your finger on exactly why, but it all just felt effortless and satisfying” and it’s one of the most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll. The food offering revolves around a five-course menu for £55 per person: “refined dishes with a number of options to play with” and “with clear (and justifiable) pride in the food coming out of the kitchen”. There’s also “a comprehensive and far-flung wine list”. Top Menu Tip – “The Marmite bread is worth the hype”.

“There is no better place in Hove to have a lovely long lunch” than this elevated boozer, with a “changing and appealing menu” of supercharged British pub classics. If you want more ginger, its three local siblings are equally fun places to be (and if you want to overnight in one of their quirky rooms or self-catering mews houses, you can do that too).

“Duncan Ray delivers a top seafood menu from a tiny kitchen” at this “wonderful and intimate spot tucked away behind a busy Brighton street”, where just 20 guests enjoy an “unbelievable menu in a single sitting per night”. Even a reporter who felt “the food didn’t quite live up to some sublime experiences in the past” still felt that “there were some great dishes, we love what LFM does, and it’s well worth a visit”.

“Still Brighton’s best for a straightforward, beautifully cooked but unpretentious meal” (albeit “at a price”), Ben & Pamela McKellar’s “little gem tucked down a side street off the seafront” is “as good as ever” after 25 years in business and “lovely for date night”. Even those who feel they’ve “clearly decided to go for something ‘finer’” of late (“the bread has become extremely fancy, as have the canapés”) don’t regret that upward turn, praising the “superb” food and service (“especially the Sunday lunch”).

2023 Review: “If you are happy with a food hall for your meal, then this is a good (but very popular) option” – this year-old venue has a “great location” on the seafront and features seven street-food concepts at a time. In her July 2022 visit, The Guardian’s Grace Dent was also wowed: “The food, with each delivery by a chipper server, continued to be far better than a food hall ever tends to be… we left Shelter Hall jubilant, £60 down for lunch for three people with drinks”.

“The best dim sum for miles around” (steamed, grilled or fried) is the lure to this “long-established” Cantonese near the sea; going strong since 1980, it’s “consistently full of people having a great time” – and, more reassuringly still, those people are far from neophytes, this being “the favourite Chinese restaurant of actual Chinese people” in the area.

“Delicious Japanese food that you want to keep ordering more of” keeps a “buzzing” crowd coming back to this “very popular restaurant”, which has lost none of its edge in ten years of service – founder David Miney spent three years as a chef in Tokyo, where he perfected izakaya-style tavern cuisine. There’s a “great selection of small plates, including vegetarian dishes”, and “it’s fun watching the chefs at work”.

“You always know what you’re going to get” – namely “basic fish ’n’ chips to elaborate shellfish dishes” – at this seafront establishment, where banker Thomas Coutts’s widow Harriet Mellon (Europe’s richest woman) used to dwell, reportedly dining upon her favourite king prawns. The palatial venue became a restaurant in the 1930s, and for the odd diner who feels that “standards have drifted recently as the tourists pour in”, there’s plenty more for whom “everything seems true and reassuring”, from the victuals to the “lovely setting”.

“Excellent fish cookery” showcased in a “very atmospheric dining room” which is “one of the surprisingly rare places with sea views in Brighton” – “the quality here is unwavering and the menu always evolves slightly”. Even one local who considers it “a tiny-bit-less superb than the Coal Shed and Burnt Orange” (its stablemates in local restaurateur Raz Helalat’s Black Rock group), feels that “when it’s good, it’s very good”.

“Raz (Helalat, of the Black Rock Restaurants group) does it again!” with this open-flame specialist, reborn in “deliberately flash” new city-centre premises, on North Street, in late 2024, and now sprawling over five distinct dining areas and a dedicated cocktail bar. By all accounts the new venue is “fabulous in every way”: “the beef (28-day Irish steaks cooked over hot coals) remains of the highest quality, but there is now a bigger menu with plenty of fish and vegetarian choices” to go with it, and the high stakes relocation has “real atmosphere” too (“almost like a London restaurant”).