Brighton, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Innovative, delicious and charming” – this open-kitchen with counter and sharing plates venture in the ‘New Lanes’ development is “absolutely superb”. It’s also very different from its nearby siblings in Pamela & Ben McKellar’s high-performing Ginger group, and “has really succeeded in capturing a key slice of the local market”.

2021 Review: “A shabby-chic bistro with pleasant staff and interesting small plates” – fish-centric – plus “natural wines to complement the seasonal organic food”.

“A real find in tourist-trap Brighton” – this Lanes oyster bar (with a spinoff near the front) serves classic platters of crustacea alongside a full menu of fish dishes. “We were a large greedy party and every course was delicious. All sauces benefitted from a base of well-reduced fish stock”.

Michael Bremner’s “small and cosy” Lanes venue, with an open kitchen and a focus on small plates “full of fantastic flavours”, is approaching its 10th year. “Small enough to ensure you’re not overheard but with some cracking dishes to challenge the palate – a winner!”.

Opened just before Christmas 2019, a brightly decorated establishment where everything is cooked over open fire in the central open kitchen. It’s from the Food for Friends team with chefs Holly Taylor and Toby Geneen. Limited initial feedback, but ratings are strong and reports are of a “carnivore’s delight”.

Coal Shed founder Razak Helalat opened his third Brighton restaurant in The Lanes in June 2021 (there's also The Salt Room), serving food cooked over a wood fire, with a specially curated soundtrack from Fatboy Slim. It has inspired immediate enthusiastic local feedback: “Wow! The most delicious food” and particularly “fabulous cocktails”.

‘Brighton on your plate’ is the watch-word at Isaac Bartlett-Copeland’s tiny North Laine operation – to which you could add ‘Sussex in your glass’. But it’s the “all-round high quality” of the cooking and preparation as much as the hyper-localist enthusiasm of the young team that wins consistently high ratings for the venue.

Great British Menu winner Michael Bremner’s sibling to 64 Degrees, right under The Arches on the seafront, makes a “great place to eat outside by the promenade and watch the world go by while eating delicious fish!”. Feedback this year did suggest, however, that it's been “slightly off its game very recently”, with a number of reports featuring meals that were “a bit of a mixed bag”.

2021 Review: “More ‘pubby’ than The Gingerman” – the namesake group’s original site and flagship, opened in 1998 – “but more relaxing” too, this dog-friendly Kemptown spot is a solid performer which “cannot be beaten for family get-togethers”; the newest ginger, The Flint House, mixing tapas, cocktails and a roof terrace, opened in central Brighton in spring 2019.

“Simply fabulous every time we go and never failing to be both brilliant and very relaxed” – Ben & Pamela McKellar's “small, intimate” stalwart (the founding stone in the Ginger empire) continues to please its veritable army of fans.

It’s a case of ‘Back to the Future’ at this beautifully situated site on the front, which operated here under the Due South name from 2004-2011, before becoming Riddle & Finns on the Beach. In May 2021, owner Rob Shenton decided to return to its former branding, having moved Riddle & Finns on the Beach to a new location nearby. No reports of the new, er old, regime as yet.

“A good alternative to The Gingerman” (and featuring some of their staff), this “pricey but stand-out” two-year-old bistro is “simply the best neighbourhood restaurant you could wish for”; in addition to the “interesting” seasonal dishes, the wine list generates particular excitement – “there are longer ones for sure but few pack in so much variety. It's a list written for wine lovers and sommelier Rob will guide you to a great bottle”.

“Now a major fixture on the Hove scene” – this neighbourhood deli-restaurant and wine shop (founded in 2015) makes a “lovely place to drop into and hang out at” and as a result is also a “destination for many” nowadays. Arguably “it’s all about the wine”: “a vast interesting aperitif offering and extensive selection of wine from the shelves”. But the “beautiful and clever” small dishes are “creative” too (and at weekends, a tasting menu is served). “Exactly what you hope eating out will be. You can also buy the wine and take out cheese. Perfect!”.

Steven Edwards’s cooking is “breathtakingly good” at this converted bank in Hove, near the seafront, where diners can choose to eat five, seven or nine courses. The venue from a MasterChef: The Professionals winner has lived up to its early promise, generating enough trade to justify expansion and redesign, completed in late 2021, which has increased its size, taken on a new monochrome look and created a subterranean bar. There’s also a “great range of exceptional and different wines from across the world”.

“Just fantastic”, say fans of this Hove gastropub-with-rooms (from the local Gingerman group), which generates nothing but enthusiastic feedback. “I’ve been here lots, eaten lots of croquettes and pies, and every time it’s a winner…”, “year after year there’s nowhere better for wonderful seasonal local food”.

“Lovely, lovely, lovely... this English country pub” – from Brighton’s Gingerman group – “ticks every box: gorgeous garden with climbing frame for the kids, superb food, a fine wine list and great beer. Oh, and the staff couldn’t do enough for us, without being obsequious”. And more boxes: “sources local produce and wine as well”. “The perfect country pub”, agree its many fans: “can’t wait to go back”.

“Just opened and likely to become the best Lewes has to offer” – this June 2021 newcomer opened too late for a huge volume of survey feedback (or a rating), but is already winning strong local support. It quickly experienced changes, though, with the departure of launch chef Richard Falk and the arrival of former Drakes at Ripley head chef, Andrew Wilson. The latter produces a traditional-with-a-twist two-course or three-course set menu at an affordable price.