Brighton, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

It’s 15 years since this basement in a Kemptown boutique hotel helped raise the excitement level about Brighton’s eateries, and it remains one of the city’s better dining destinations to this day. One repeat visitor was “disappointed on a return-visit after many years”, but most reporters still rate the cuisine here very highly and the only other gripe we received last year was “pity it doesn’t have a sea view…”

“Overall just a fantastic experience” – a Lanes oyster bar, with a spinoff on the promenade (“both are very popular”), which wins numerous raves for “the most amazing seafood”, combined with “brilliant” service and a pleasingly “informal” set-up (communal tables) whereby “you might easily find yourself sharing a tall table with strangers”.

“The tiny backstreet original of the Ginger empire” – near the front – Ben & Pamela McKellar’s stalwart favourite has earned itself a sizeable and enduring fan club over two decades with its “intimate” style, “attentive but unobtrusive service” and, most importantly, its “wonderfully consistent, accomplished, fresh and tasty dishes”. “The true king of Brighton’s food scene!”

“Fine dining experience without a fine dining ambience” – MasterChef: The Professionals winner Steven Edwards continues to cook up a storm at his converted bank in Hove, which offers a choice of five-, seven- or nine-course menus. All reports are of “attention to detail, with a personal touch” resulting in food with “depth of flavour and delicacy that’s a level up from most other such places”. Top Tip – “juice flight for the non-alcoholic drinkers”.

“A great new opening in Hove, with experienced staff from Ginger group”: this new bistro (from Robert Maynard, Faye Hudson and James Thomson, together with chef Oliver Derby) only opened in April 2019 (in the middle of our survey) but is already inspiring enthusiastic reviews from reporters, who say it’s “a perfect local” with “friendly and efficient service as you would expect of such a team, but also really good food” and – last but not least – a “brilliant wine list” (there are 120 bins to choose from).

“Wonderful, very quirky choices cooked to order” inspire an ongoing outpouring of love for this “casual” small-plates venue, owned by Great British Menu 2017 winner, Michael Bremner. Consequently, it’s “a little crowded” but “good fun”, with “slick and quick service” – “a vibrant spot where you can sit very squashed on a stool at the bar watching the kitchen cook and serve great food!”

Localism is taken to new extremes at Isaac Bartlett-Copeland’s tiny North Laine “gem,” where “imaginative cooking and interesting presentation” win high ratings for a “young and enthusiastic staff” (Isaac and his team are all in their early-mid 20s) “who work hard to make an evening here a special experience”. Not only is the “great food sourced from local producers” – you’d be hard-pressed to find a wine from beyond the Sussex borders on the all-British drinks list.

2018 Review: Near Seven Dials, but slightly “out of the way”, this unpretentious gastroboozer “produces modern cooking you’d be delighted with in an upmarket London restaurant” – and also ticks all those (by now mandatory) local/seasonal boxes.