Brighton, Italian Restaurant Guide

A “big, bustling Italian” with a “fun atmosphere” in the Lanes, “where genuine Italian staff serve huge portions of tasty pasta and pizza” – it’s an “outstanding cheap ’n’ cheerful choice” and “the kids love it, too”.

In 2016, David Toscano turned his series of pop-ups into this tiny, 20-seater converted from a garage, and with much of the seating around the u-shaped bar. Its lack of frills and comfort makes it a turn-off to some folks, but most rate it very highly: “super for a perfect plate of pasta, and really great fresh Italian food”.

Open since 1969, and now run by the original founder's children and grandchildren, this Hove seafront ristorante serves up Southern Italian cuisine, featuring lots of fish; the gelatos create long queues in summer.