Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 1 September 2019. Kala, Manchester Jay Rayner for The Observer headed to Manchester to try out the latest jewel in Gary Usher’s crown. He wasn’t welcome, of course – when Usher opened his very first restaurant, Sticky Walnut in […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 18 August 2019. Flor, London SE1 Jimi Famurewa for The Evening Standard found Southwark newcomer Flor to be “lightly challenging” and “utterly astonishing”, with food that “hits a sweet spot between the unexpected and the familiar… between thoughtful, modern refinement and messy, chin-dripping joy”. […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 11 August 2019. Pilgrim, Liverpool Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times had very little time for the marketing “tripe” surrounding the new Duke Street Market flagship restaurant she visited in Liverpool – one of the many new additions to the UK’s food scene, […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 28 July 2019. Heritage, London W1 Jay Rayner for The Observer made some sweeping generalisations about Switzerland to start his review (“it’s expensive, tooth-achingly polite, efficient and profoundly committed to dairy fats”) but only to point out that Heritage manages just three out […]
Mexican restaurant Santo Remedio is to launch a chef’s table supper club experience called Mesa Santa, which will take place both upstairs at the London Bridge restaurant and at venues across the UK. The first, on August 9, will be hosted at the Northamptonshire home of food critic William Sitwell. There, chef patron and co-founder […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 14 July 2019. The Newell, Dorset Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times celebrates the restaurants she calls “quietly wonderful” – not the “flashy and splashy and showy and spendy” places chased down (and sometimes closed down) by food critics and hordes of Insta-tourists, […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 7 July 2019. Mana, Manchester From the moment the first of 16 courses arrived, Marina O’Loughlin of The Sunday Times was “blown away” by Simon Martin’s cooking at Mana. He cooked at Noma for several years (unlike so many chefs, which, as Marina […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 16 June 2019. Hjem, Northumberland Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times relies on her “spidey sense” to truffle out fabulous new restaurants to tell us about, and this time that “tingling in the fingertip” was spot on. And so it was off to […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 9 June 2019. AngloThai at Counter Culture, London SW4 “It’s testament to how much I want to eat Chantarasak’s food that I’ll schlep down here to this ghetto of Zara-clad Freddies and Livvys and sit on a petrol-fumed pavement table watching an unending […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 12 May 2019. Scully, London SW1 Jay Rayner for The Observer was back in London this week after reviewing several remarkably low-priced restaurants across the UK. Scully is in direct contrast to those places – “the only way you can get out of […]
