Esher, French Restaurant Guide

With its array of “silky-smooth croquetas” and other tapas favourites, backed up by “a great choice of sherries”, this popular gastropub-with-rooms in the Surrey ’burbs from Spanish maestro José Pizarro is “one of the best places to eat for miles around” – and, as you’d expect of this much-fêted ambassador of all things Iberian, “makes a decent stab at a Hispanic vibe”.

There’s no doubting the “fantastic location” of this link in Raymond Blanc’s Heartwood Inns collection – a nook and cranny-filled boozer on pretty Downside Common with a heated outdoor tent and beer garden for added measure. Its victuals aren’t fancy but are “generally good” by common consensus, and continue to be of note for their moderate price tags (especially now they’ve relaunched their bargainous seasonal set menus).

This “lovely little restaurant” of 10 years’ standing in St Margaret’s is all that a neighbourhood spot should be – “just wish it was more local!” – offering high-class French cooking from former Pierre Koffmann sous chef Gianluca di Monaco. Star of the show is the “superb chateaubriand, air-dried on the premises, that just melts in the mouth”. Note: very busy when there’s a big game at nearby Twickenham.

This “long-established Brittany-French restaurant” is “much loved in Richmond for its good food – galettes, seafood and the rest”, “amazing value” and “decent (if sometimes hectic) service”. Its sale two years ago by founder Lindsay Wotton, who ran it for 35 years, has not dented its appeal.

2022 Review: ‘A taste of rural France on the Fulham Road’ is the promise at this ‘gourmet traiteur’ in Chelsea: an early 2020 newcomer where dishes (to go or for delivery within 4 miles) are designed for reheating at home and prepared by Chris Hill, who most recently worked as a senior sous chef at The Ritz. It’s owned by Dimitri and Mira Plaquet, of a high-quality Belgian food group called La Villa Lorraine. They must be doing something right, as in mid 2021 they launched a second store in Wimbledon.

“Very popular” for its “beautifully presented French bistro food”, this “lovely small restaurant” near Kew station and Gardens is “well priced”, and gains much of its charm and ambience from the retro-Gallic styling of its interior: red-and-white gingham tablecloths, 1950s-vintage posters.

A “family favourite” that “brings back memories of small French restaurants” – this “reliable” Battersea brasserie has outposts in Putney, Wandsworth Common, South Ken, the City and most recently Clerkenwell, where it opened inside Marrable’s Hotel in late 2024. Harsher reports say they can be a little “underwhelming”, though – one reporter complaining that the “cute dining room was let down by mixed quality of the food and somewhat lax Gallic service (in a bad way)”.

“You can imagine you are in France with the walls of French posters and overall design” at Donna Thompson-Smith’s “authentically Gallic” destination, which has been a welcome feature of distant Acton Green for over twenty years now (est. 2004). It has a good number of big fans who say it’s “more than a bistro, with seriously good classical French cooking making it worth the detour”. One or two regulars, though, say it shouldn’t be over-egged (“it’s local to us and good on all levels, but others in town do the same thing better. We’ve been about ten times: but if it sharpened up, we’d go all the time”). Top Menu Tips – “we always have the soufflé for starters as it is magical”.

As “a handy choice near the National Theatre”, the SE1 branch of this celeb-branded chain is both “well-situated” and “always dependable pre-show” according to a good number of reports. It and its stablemates are often praised for their “consistent” standard of “classic brasserie options” (in particular “steaks are really good”). But their overall ratings support those who “feel a bit like you’re on a conveyor belt” and it is safe to say that the group “lacks the ambition that the brand had in its early days”, when M Blanc himself founded it as ‘Le Petit Blanc’ in 1996.

A “family favourite” that “brings back memories of small French restaurants” – this “reliable” Battersea brasserie has outposts in Putney, Wandsworth Common, South Ken, the City and most recently Clerkenwell, where it opened inside Marrable’s Hotel in late 2024. Harsher reports say they can be a little “underwhelming”, though – one reporter complaining that the “cute dining room was let down by mixed quality of the food and somewhat lax Gallic service (in a bad way)”.

“A decent attempt to reproduce Provençal cooking in Shepherd’s Bush”: Lawrence & Emily Hartley’s “nice local bistro” north of Brook Green – “a successor to a spot that was Café Rouge for many years” (and briefly Mustard, RIP) – provides “French classics” with “friendly service”. Critics feel that at times, “the food, though fairly authentic, can be just a bit underwhelming”; but the majority see “much to recommend the place” and feel it’s a “welcome venture” in this underserved neck of the woods. Top Tip – “good set menu”.

A “local treasure” on Battersea Bridge Road for more than 12 years: chef-patron Franck Raymond “successfully delivers French food and ambience”, showcasing the cuisine of his native Evian on the shores of Lake Geneva in a suitably rustic dining room. The restaurant is named after his grand-mère. Top Menu Tips – “very nice Lobster bisque and perfectly cooked Rack of lamb”.