Covent Garden, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Welsh chef, Bryn Williams (of Odette’s, in NW3 and in North Wales at Porth Eirias) makes a foray into a more central location, in a stately chamber within Somerset House. There’s nothing but praise for the “personable” service and “very imaginatively conceived and carefully prepared dishes”, but the way it promotes its ‘flexitarian’ credentials (putting fruit and veg front and centre) can grate – “the menu can seem irritating owing to placing the protein after the veg” and, more seriously, more than one veggie luncher has bizarrely encountered a set menu with no satisfactory veggie alternative (“unheard of in modern veg-friendly civilisation?”).

“Enchanting decor” – very “calming and relaxing”, considering it’s so central – is a major highpoint of this ambitious newcomer from the Boglione family, which is part of a very attractive new development in Covent Garden. It repeats a lot of the DNA of their original venture – Richmond’s famously romantic, shabby chic Petersham Nurseries – although the punchy prices for its “refined and elegant” dishes have so far inspired less controversy here.

“Classic small plates” of “fantastic quality seafood”, “served in a 1930’s-style atmosphere” have evolved a separate, highly popular, identity for Sheekey’s “bustling” and “beautiful” adjacent bar, which fans say is “better than the restaurant!” and whose relatively “informal” approach is particularly “great for pre-/post-theatre”. Its ratings don’t hit the heights they once did, however, with the odd gripe that “while the welcome was warm, the food was nothing to write home about”.

Within gorgeous Somerset House, this “elegant and light-filled dining room” makes “an exceptionally civilised place to eat”, and Skye Gyngell’s “enticing” menu of “delicate, seasonal and delicious” dishes, plus “charming service”, contribute to an “airy, fresh and delightful” experience that better fulfilled its promise this year as “one of the most impressive restaurants in this part of London”. In particular, it’s a romantic favourite: “I recommended it to my son for an early date, and now he’s marrying the lady concerned!”

“I know it’s not the celeb haunt it used to be and is now a bit touristy, but they still make you feel like a king” is still a widely held view on this epic “Theatreland classic” (the original in what’s an increasingly sizeable national chain); and for its many fans a visit here is still a “warm, life-affirming experience”. However, it feels to some regulars like the appeal is becoming “all about the room” and its “glamorous” decor, amidst growing unease that Richard Caring’s group is just “milking it” nowadays – ratings slid across the board this year, and its comfort food cuisine “is as it always was, nothing special… just now even more expensive!”.

“Great vistas over centuries-old London rooftops to Parliament” lend a frisson to a visit to this top-floor dining room, which remains a highly popular West End destination. Even if the “pleasant”, “unadventurous” food is arguably “nothing to write home about” the “other elements make up for it”. Top Tip: good afternoon tea (“it looks as if Nelson could step off his pedestal and join you – who could blame him with all the goodies on offer…”)