Liverpool, International Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: The restaurant of this lush Wirral country pile is “a little hidden gem”, delivering some “unbelievable” food (including a “quite affordable” prix fixe at lunch); fans say that it’s the “best on the Wirral (since Fraiche is always full up)”. (This was the location, in October 2019, of the crunch Brexit talks between Boris Johnson and Irish Taoiseach, Leo Varadkar).

“Continuing its stately progress to becoming the UK’s best restaurant in what was for many decades the gastronomic desert of West Lancashire” – Mark Birchall’s medieval manor house to the north of Liverpool has, since it opened in 2017, won award after award and “a third Michelin star must be close”. “Booking here, even for lunch, is like buying a ticket to an experience”, which begins with the approach down a long drive (and during which a visit to the gardens comes highly recommended). Although the hall itself is ancient, it has been significantly adapted to its modern use, and the dining room itself is in a contemporary extension: “an unusual design with high ceilings and lots of glass overlooking the lake and gardens”. Mark’s “out-of-this-world” cuisine is “based very much on regional ingredients from Lancashire's under-rated larder. There's clever use of contrasting flavours and the kitchen can really make very simple ingredients sing”. In particular, they “do improbably brilliant things with root vegetables (particularly carrots and turnips!)”. “Mildly formal” service is “impeccable, with the team pulling off that trick of being casual and friendly without ever losing sight of the part they play in ensuring everything goes to plan”. Criticisms are few and far between, and the only consistent negative amongst reports is the unsurprising hangover to the wallet that a visit entails. For the most part, though, it’s just 10/10s all-round. “The perfect weekend away – total luxury!”