Liverpool, International Restaurant Guide

“What can I say that’s not already been said? Just superb!” – Mark Birchall’s converted manor house north of Liverpool is five years old now, but still has the golden glow of one of the UK’s most fast-rising culinary stars, and some fans say they “thought it had a chance of its third Michelin star this year”. That would be an achievement anywhere – never mind in a corner of West Lancashire long seen as a gastronomic wasteland. The long drive, the lake, the grounds, the cleverly refurbished medieval buildings… all create a “perfect and luxurious experience”. “The dining room and lounges are sleek and welcoming and the attention to detail from the kitchen garden to the cheese room, even to the cutlery is flawless”. “Best of all, every mouthful from its tasting menu is fresh, clean and sublime” and a clear reflection of the “dedication, high standards and clear technical expertise” in the kitchen. Fame is bringing one drawback though – even those who judge it a “fabulous” experience sometimes think it risks becoming an “outrageously expensive” one. And – amidst praise for “fun and unintimidating staff who don’t miss a beat” – there is also the odd fear of “an over-focus on creating theatre rather than making the customer totally relaxed”. Top Tip – “the food bonanza continues at breakfast so stay over if you can”.

A lot of water has passed under the bridge since 2019 when Boris Johnson and former Irish Taoiseach, Leo Varadkar, met for crunch post-Brexit talks at this posh hotel & spa out on the Wirral. On limited feedback, ratings for its grill are good all-round, but more plaudits go to the rather dramatically named ‘Great Wirral Afternoon Tea’ – a “well thought-out offering with good choice of sweet or savoury options” that’s “particularly nice on the terrace or lawn”.