Greater Manchester Restaurant Guide

“You know as soon as you enter that this is going to be something special”; Simon Martin guaranteed his place in the history books in October 2019 when this dazzling newcomer secured the city’s first Michelin star in 40 years. “In part of Ancoats which has risen from waste ground in recent years, Mana looks like an anonymous office from the outside, with double (triple?) height net curtains over the large windows, and almost imperceptible signage”. The interior itself is “beautifully designed” (by Chester design practice, James Roberts): “light and modern, with a breathtaking, completely open kitchen – you can actually walk between the work stations as the chefs are plating up”. “The chef trained with Rene Redzepi and brings back to Manchester some of his magic” – “Nordic-style” cuisine from a choice of 15-course or 18-course tasting menus that’s “challenging in parts” but little short of “exquisite”. “Contrary to fears that everything might be covered in moss, what’s striking is how many dishes seem like ‘real’ food – there’s a real flow to the menu, enhanced by excellent service, both from the actual front of house, and the chefs who come forward to serve some dishes”.

“Just phenomenal – the tasting menu is sublime and the wine pairing so well matched” at Sam Buckley’s “relaxing but luxurious” set-up in an old, Victorian brick-walled warehouse. There is the odd gripe that the hipster succession of numerous bite-sized dishes – often using produce from their own farm – is on the pricey side, but all reports acknowledge the “amazing tastes and ideas” the experience delivers, while “the service is just wonderful – you’re made to feel important as soon as you walk in the door”.

“Adam has put his stamp on this place now, and it keeps getting better”. This grade II listed chamber – somewhat funked up, with yellow leather banquettes and massive lights, within what is, in essence, a very traditional space – has had many culinary ups and downs over the decades, but, after three years at the helm, Adam Reid is now settling into a “fabulous” stride here, with his selection of “totally desirable” four, six or nine-course menus. The cuisine is “not so challenging that you don’t want to come!” – “flowing wonderfully and generously, with notably well-executed dishes that simply delight”. And you eat to a “terrific soundtrack too (Buddy Holly to Arctic Monkeys to the Beatles)”. Until Mana triumphed at this year’s Michelin awards, The French was the only Manchester restaurant ever to have held a Michelin star (most recently in 1974) and was a hot tip to be the first to regain the prize for the city. “How other places in the region can have a Michelin star and The French doesn’t is utterly inexplicable (apart from Michelin’s pig-headedness of course)”.

“High-end traditional Chinese cuisine at its best” and “exceptional service” win a chorus of praise for Wing Shing Chu’s smart city-centre Cantonese, which has welcomed millions of pounds-worth of United and City players, their WAGs and other celebs through its doors over the past two decades.