Daily Mail
Tom Parker Bowles found “comfort food of the highest calibre” to soothe his soul at this hard-to-find restaurant hidden away under a Victorian railway arch – “a high-altitude, Middle-European paean to stodge, fat and unabashed delight”.
The stars of the menu are spätzle, “those fine Swabian noodles, made fresh every day. And dear God they’re good, plump and pouting, but light too, with just the right amount of bite.”
Tom Parker Bowles - 2025-01-05The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell visited a “Manchester institution” named after its signature dish, the rustic German pasta spätzle “which, folklore tells us, got its name for resembling a quarrel of sparrows” – although to William “the noodles look more like blond worms – little eels, even – than sparrows”.
“All seems well with the world as you guzzle them”, thanks to their “yielding, soft texture” and “the gentle flavours they deliver: the butter and sage, both sweet and herby, and the cured pork cheek and egg yolk creating a cosy carbonara flavour”. Simple dishes of borlotti beans, sausage with sauerkraut and cornichons, and a classic tiramisu followed.
“This central European lunch for a working chap almost made me weep at what the British equivalent might be – a bleak and soggy sandwich.”
William Sitwell - 2025-06-15
Drinks
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