Devon Restaurant Guide

“Micheal Caines back at his best: his passion and drive for his hotel are boundless!” – all of the many reports on his “flagship hotel, situated on the Exe estuary” are rapturous about “the complete package” delivered by his year-old solo venture: “foodie hotel heaven” which combines “awesome views”, with “exciting food”, “lovely contemporary design”, “immaculate service”, a “serene and beautiful environment” and a sense of “pure luxury”. Some “work is needed to keep the prices in the real world” but quibbles are surprisingly few in this respect. Both Estuary (all fish) and Signature tasting menus combine exceptional flavours, textures and presentation to make them “a unique experience”.

Chris Simpson “has made a good start” (taking over the baton from Michael Wignall) at this famous culinary Xanadu: a Tudorbethan mansion down a one-track lane on the borders of Dartmoor in gorgeous gardens that was regularly hailed by our diners’ survey in Michael Caines’ era, a few years ago, as the UK’s top gastronomic destination. On most accounts “it’s still maintaining its high standard of food and the superb wine list” and fans say that “if you’re looking for an exceptional foodie experience look no further”. A number of return visitors, however, this year, judged it inferior to their previous trip, especially when it came to value at the vertiginous prices. “Quibbles taking it from 5/5 to 4/5 are the wildly overpriced wine list and the sameness of some of the courses”. Also, “the set of small rooms are somewhat awkward”, and for style-conscious types “the 1970s-styling, with unsympathetic lighting and heavy curtains” raises the query “time for a refurb?”

“The Gallery in Boringdon has risen up the ranks of local Plymouth eateries” and “must be one of the best in the south west” nowadays. “Chef Scott Paton has worked wonders” in the dining room of this 40-room five-star hotel: “the setting is wonderful” and the cooking “memorable”.

This farm-based operation set in a barn “continues to delight with wonderful vegetables and salads accompanied by excellent meats”, with much of the produce sourced from the surrounding fields and served at communal tables.