The Times
Charlotte Ivers dined at the Devon flagship of Mitch Tonks’s West Country group, which she is assured by friends is “the best seafood restaurant in Britain” – “the sort of seaside restaurant amenable to snobbish city dwellers… with all the luxury comforts of a metropolitan dinner spot”.
As promised, it is “no greasy fish and chips on the beach job”: “Every fish that can plausibly be dragged out of the sea within a two-mile radius has been extracted and thrown onto the coal fire.”
For Charlotte, the big revelation is the tuna: “taken from the fish’s collar, [it] is meaty, tender, rich and marbled with fat, as you’d expect from a good wagyu. It tastes like beef. Fatty, buttery beef. Then it doesn’t. The further I get in, the more the tuna taste starts to seep in. Wonderful.”
Charlotte Ivers - 2024-09-01
