Cambridge Restaurant Guide

“Absolutely top-notch food” – “pricey but great!” – is the key to the steady growth enjoyed by this Copenhagen-based Japanese group, whose most recent (2019) openings in Soho and Chelsea join established venues across London. It’s “an interesting concept, well executed” – “fresh and delicious sushi”, yakitori skewers, and “colourful, almost art-directed salads”, delivered in dining rooms that combine clean, Japanese minimalism with Danish hygge.

A former home of E.M. Forster no less, this pleasing boozer launched in 2013 with a menu of solid British bistro fare including scotch eggs that are “easily good enough to qualify as a substantial meal” (and also an extensive gin and craft-beer list); sadly the newer Birmingham branch was an early Covid casualty.

2019 Review: Yards from King’s, and with “lovely views” of the college chapel, this attractive, no-nonsense meat specialist continues to win enthusiastic all-round feedback; part of a nine-strong local chain, the owners are now crowdfunding to open two new sites.

“A real treat” despite being “in a prime position” on one of Cambridge’s main tourist drags (bang opposite the namesake college) – with “romantic tables with a view of the Great Gate”. Staff are “friendly” and serve “a smallish, eclectic and good-value menu”.

Richard Caring’s ever-growing brasserie chain offshoot of the namesake London landmark – fellow uni town Exeter is the newest arrival – shares the pros and cons of its many siblings (e.g. saminess) but both survey feedback and marks suggest there's absolutely “nothing wrong” with it either and – especially in this often underserved Varsity town – it’s worth remembering.

2019 Review: Despites both its iconic status – a Cambridge landmark since 1921 – and foodie ownership (FT columnist, Tim Hayward has owned it since 2011), this Varsity café (most famous for its Chelsea buns) inspires only limited and middling feedback: “more-than-adequate if pricey comfort food in a busy environment”.

The “fantastic dining room overlooking Parker’s Piece” was a “welcome addition to the Cambridge restaurant scene” when it opened three years ago in the old University Arms Hotel under chef Tristan Welch (formerly of Launceston Place). It’s “good for a fancy family celebration” and “the food can be great on its day” – but by several accounts it “does not always quite match up to the surroundings, and sometimes service could be improved”.

Set within the new Graduate hotel on the banks on the Cam, the name of this grill-focused hotel restaurant (opened in Summer 2021) references the name of the former hotel on this site (for decades the posh place to stay for parents visiting their little lovelies at the uni). White Rabbit Studio (Lina Stores, Kricket) is in charge of the food under chef Adam Wood (ex-Perilla). (It’s Oxford sibling has taken over The Randolph; the group also has a portfolio of hotels in college towns in America).

“Consistently excellent burgers from a small fleet of vintage Citroën vans” – painted bright yellow and red – ensure this small local brand has high visibility around Cambridge. You can also sample the burgers from a more conventional bricks and mortar site in Wheeler Street.

2021 Review: This “meaty joint” occupies an attractive converted mill, complete with working water wheel. It “continues to please students and locals in its airy space overlooking river and millpond (I saw a kingfisher!)”.

“Always a pleasure”, this indie bistro is a “local favourite”, twinning “very friendly service and reliable cooking” of an Anglo-European bent; take advantage of the attractive courtyard in clement months or pop in pre- or post-theatre.

2021 Review: Look out for the bright yellow Citroën van, if you want to try veteran restaurateur Regis Crépy’s latest venture, selling Alsatian pizza-type Flammekueche in a Cambridge food court. For a tasty, cheap ’n’ cheerful snack that’s a little out of the ordinary, these “light”, “fresh-tasting” and “reasonably priced” wafers of bread dough complete with toppings are just the job.

“Gorgeously located” – on the banks of the Cam within Midsummer Common – this much-accoladed Victorian villa remains the Varsity town’s top address and one of the country’s better-known ‘fine-dining’ destinations. “Every morsel of Daniel Clifford’s cuisine is delicious, creative and innovative” and “all beautifully presented”. Staff can be a bit “formal”, but “the only real negative is the vast overpricing”, a gripe which crops up in many reports on the restaurant (in particular, “the wine selection is very extensive, but very expensive”). A more positive view? “What is there not to like? Of course, people will say the price, but for this quality there is bound to be a price to pay. Superb!”.

Ambitious and “exciting” Indian cuisine is on the menu at this Cambridge operation, which crossed the road into new premises in late 2021 (rendering obsolete complaints of “peeling wallpaper”). Reporters recommend choosing one of the tasting menus, which offer seven courses of standard, vegetarian or vegan dishes – “it meant that I tried dishes I wouldn’t normally choose and really opened up new flavours to me”.

“Wow! Veggie heaven!” – an “incredibly creative use of vegetables” contributes to a “tasty tasting menu” at former MasterChef finalist Alex Rushmer's local/ethical two-year-old (in what was a branch of Subway!), run in tandem with his former sous chef, Lawrence Butler. NB – you’ll need to book way in advance – not least if you opt for the four-seater chef’s table with views of the open kitchen.

“New premises, same glorious vegan food... ” – this well-regarded venture (which nowadays also has a London offshoot) moved from the city-centre in 2021 to a swish new home in the burgeoning new developments just seconds from the train station. At the bottom of a large office building, it’s arguably a step up from their old quarters, but one or two long-term fans feel the “new place lacks ambience”.

2019 Review: With its fortunes revived under the Huntsbridge Group of late, this “lovely old thatched building with sunny conservatory” joined the local, ever-growing Cambscuisine empire in January 2018; fans say it’s “back in business”, turning out “interesting and well-prepared” food.

2018 Review: A cosy 18th-century village pub with quaint decor and a lovely garden; it offers an “imaginative menu” of “well-cooked” classics and more adventurous dishes – including some ingredients produced on the premises (they also rear their own rare-breed sheep).

In the building occupied for almost 50 years by well-known Italian restaurant Don Pasquale, at the edge of Cambridge's ancient marketplace, this new multi-level space will incorporate a restaurant, an all-day cafe, a wine bar, a food lab and flexible meetings rooms over five floors of the Grade II listed building.