Cambridge, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Amazing… every time” is still the most typical assessment of this acclaimed Victorian villa – one of the UK’s most renowned eateries – which is very picturesquely situated across the Cam from the Varsity’s boat houses and bordering Midsummer Common. Daniel Clifford and his team deliver “a superb overall dining experience: the number and quality of amuse-bouches, the sourdough bread, each individual course… the service… all of the highest order”. Even many fans feel that the “exuberant bill is hard to justify”, however, and to its critics the “staggering costs” are plain OTT, with toppish wine prices a particular gripe (“some more reasonable ‘house’ options would be welcome”).

For “understated excellence in all categories”, Hans Schweitzer’s accomplished outfit – which relocated to the Gonville Hotel in 2017 – is “always a must”; “if there is a downside it’s the relatively few choices available” on the menu, but beyond that everything is “absolutely exquisite” (and of a classical bent).

“Definitely above average for a touristy part of Cambridge” – it’s set opposite the Great Gate of the namesake college – this “lovely little” establishment has worked up a loyal following since opening a few years back, and is a top tip for a “good-value early dinner”.

A “good local bistro” that’s “always very busy” owing to its solid, reasonably priced Anglo/European food and a “very visible” owner who “obviously cares very much about the business”; “lovely courtyard in summer” too.

The formerly creaky old University Arms Hotel has been expensively transformed, and this – it’s new ‘pub’ – is a “wonderful room in Parisian brasserie style with high ceilings and mirrors”, and “with a brilliant view over Parker’s Piece”. Tristan Welch (once of Launceston Place) is at the stoves and has won some stellar newspaper reviews for his “high-end brasserie food”. But while survey feedback on it is mostly OK, it’s also pretty middling: “nice but not 100% perfect…”; “pleasantly consistent but a bit underachieving…”; “nowhere near as good as initial reviews suggested – shame as the setting’s great”. Still, it’s “well-placed to up its game in a city short of options”.

This “meaty joint” occupies an attractive converted mill, complete with working water wheel. It “continues to please students and locals in its airy space overlooking river and millpond (I saw a kingfisher!)”.

“An attractive brasserie, professionally staffed and competently run” – “and the food is perfectly fine” at the Cambridge branch of Richard Caring’s national roll-out. “The problem with the Ivy Brasseries is that there are too many of them and you can forget which town you’re in as they even look the same”. “There’s nothing really to complain about, they’re just a bit formulaic – like an upmarket Côte!”.