London Wapping Restaurant Guide

“Simple pasta done very well” lives up to the billing at this straightforward chain, which added a branch on Baker Street complete with outside terrace to its other three locations at the start of 2024. They are “nothing amazing, but the food is good, the service friendly, and it is a very easy option” when out and about or “when cooking just feels like a chore”.

“The quality and simplicity of the fish dishes” – “superbly fresh ingredients served in generous portions” – “speak for themselves” at this classic Thames-bank venue in Wapping (sibling to Essex institution Smith’s of Ongar): a “go-to” for its big fan club, where “the lovely views of the Thames and vibe further add to the great experience”. Top Tip – “the set menu is good value, but if nothing takes your fancy then the à la carte is also reasonably priced”.

2021 Review: “Sensational Asian-fusion cooking, with the freshest of ingredients” creates an “exciting” culinary experience at this small waterside café, in St Katharine Docks. “The team is friendly and you can chat to the chef – who is a real artist – as he works in the open plan kitchen area, adjacent to your table”.

“Lush pizza” that’s reliably “top-quality” has driven the expansion of this Islington-based group that has developed four different 48-hour ferment bases – including gluten-free and ‘black vegetable charcoal’ versions to reduce stomach gas; so “everyone’s happy”. The eight-year-old group now has nine sites in the capital (including a new one labelled as ‘Chelsea’ but on Fulham Broadway) and one in Reading.

“A table on the terrace with the beautiful view of Tower Bridge is a fabulous experience” at this veteran riverside restaurant – one of the late Sir Terence Conran’s restaurant and design masterpieces when it opened as part of his ‘gastrodome’ development in 1991. It’s fallen into obscurity since the days when the Blairs entertained the Clintons here, but a jump in ratings this year, backed up by reports of “improved” and “surprisingly good” meals, suggests that – just possibly – it’s starting to get its mojo back after years of mediocrity in the D&D London stable. On the menu: a wide array of modern French dishes with plenty of steak and seafood, all backed up by a broad, high-quality wine list.

“Handy for the location” by the Thames, with spectacular views of Tower Bridge from its terrace, this modern take on the British chop house was created by the late Sir Terence Conran as part of his ‘Gastrodome’ complex in the 1990s. Nowadays owned by D&D London, it is a useful spot for tourists and business diners.

2021 Review: “One of the best views in the capital”, over Tower Bridge and the Thames, is the highlight of any meal at this venue from D&D London, on the first floor of the former Design Museum. Beyond that, there’s “no problem with the food or cooking”, which can be “surprisingly delicious” nowadays.

“Recovering nicely from the Covid effect” – this “perennial favourite for lunch” near Tower Hill is a classic bolt hole for professional buddies conspiring to kill off an afternoon over a decent bottle. Run by an independent wine merchant in a superbly characterful Victorian cellar, it provides “basic platters” of cheese or charcuterie (with veggie/vegan options) to help absorb the “very good wine at accessible prices, with good advice from the owner”. A flat £12 corkage fee makes it a good place to explore more expensive vintages, and it hosts regular events – “did a Chinese wine tasting... who knew?”

2022 Review: East London’s oldest Indian (established 1939 in Whitechapel) briefly found fame in late August 2020, when it was reviewed by Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times. Run by four generations of the same family – and with somewhat antediluvian decor – it’s not the place to uncover the latest in food fads; or as Marina eloquently put it: “it tastes like the past, deliciously”. Reports please!

This “little gem” near Tower Bridge in Shad Thames serves a “concise but well put-together menu” of Italian-inspired plates, accompanied by “good natural wines”. It was founded five years ago by Jay Patel, a former Barrafina manager, with thoughtful ex-Trullo chef Matt Beardmore running the kitchen.

2023 Review: “Sustainable, fresh, well-cooked with interesting Korean and Caribbean influences” – this avant-garde seafood operation in Wapping, from Dorset-based fish supplier Shaun Henderson and chef Neil Wager, opened in stages through 2022. The chippy came first – “but what fish ’n’ chips!”, with ten chip varieties, including ‘extra-large smoked with togarashi and okono sauce’ – followed by a full-service seafood restaurant and a ‘butchery’ specialising in dry-aged fish. Reports are too limited for a rating but initial feedback is very positive.

Innovative, family-run Latino newcomer that opened in October 2023 in St Katharine Docks (with views of Tower Bridge) that brings together Mexican-fusion dishes with Peruvian and Spanish influences, from former Barrafina head chef Tomasz Baranski. Fans say “it’s the most interesting restaurant in the area, but it’s not yet always well-patronised (which can sometimes dampen the ambience)”.

“Handy for the South Bank arts venues” – chef-patron Peter Lloyd took over the much-loved RSJ eight years ago with enough success to add another south Thames site near Tower Bridge to the brand (although a third site, in Islington, lasted just months in late 2023). “Soft shell crab, Roti canai, Singapore chilli lobster; Lamb Shank Massaman” have all been enjoyed – if there’s a gripe, it’s that the food is “good, but nothing exceptional” (“we enjoyed it, but my friend who is Singaporean by origin was disappointed that the menu was not more authentic”). Top Tip – “the pre-theatre menu of 3 courses for under £30 is excellent value”.

Scheduled to open in spring 2025 next door to Le Pont de la Tour on Shad Thames, a cosy wine bar from the team behind nearby Legare, with a terrace for warmer weather. Expect biodynamic wines accompanied by light meals.