London Fitzrovia Restaurant Guide

“I’ve never had a bad meal at Roka, and I’ve eaten there many, many times” – Arjun Waney and Rainer Becker’s small modern Japanese group delivers an “exceptional”, “all-round” package of clean-tasting fusion food served in stylish and “buzzy” contemporary surroundings. Dishes are “beautifully presented but also amazingly well-flavoured” – be it “fantastic black cod”, “fabulous sushi” or grilled tapas-y bites from the robata grill. Top Tip – in E14, the “weekend brunch menu is splendid value for money: especially the children’s menu”.

Mathieu Germond, former manager of Pied à Terre, “has worked his considerable magic here”, and has created an “amazing wine list” with “very fair mark-ups” at his “very charming” Fitzrovia yearling (on the former site of Dabbous, RIP) – “go for his suggestions” from the “wide and interesting range, many by the glass”. Ed Dutton’s “delightful” French cuisine is “excellent too”, showing “genuine, old-school skill”, while the “tasteful decoration, with lots of natural light” and “spot-on” service (“personable” – “there when you need them and non-intrusive”) “make it an ideal spot for an informal business lunch, as well as more serious entertaining”.

“An impressive step-up for Ottolenghi, and with all the elements that make his food unique”: Yotam Ottolenghi’s “just brilliant”, veg-centric yearling in Fitzrovia provides “some of the most innovative food in town” – “very clever” and “exciting” sharing-plates with “intense flavours” and “exceptional presentation” – and “even though there’s meat on the menu, it could turn the most ardent carnivore vegetarian!”. With service that’s “exemplary” and “committed” and “a really delightful atmosphere (buzzing but not noisy) it’s all-in-all a memorable experience”.

“You can tell the moment you walk through the door that the people who own it are involved and want to make their guests’ experience enjoyable” – that’s the vibe at Monica and David Galetti’s “peaceful and delightful” Fitzrovia two-year-old. “You have a relaxing drink at street level in the bar, and then it’s down a flight of steps to a chic room flooded in natural light from the street outside”. “The heart in the mind-blowing cooking shines through” – in particular the “wonderful, delicate, balanced tasting menu, packed with fresh seasonal ingredients”; and “it’s paired with an exceptional wine list”. “Staff are outstanding and the chef/patron visiting guests at their tables is a lovely touch”. “Must surely get its Michelin star soon?”

“One of a kind!”: James Knappett’s “phenomenal” Fitzrovia 20-seater – entered via the hotdog-and-Champagne bar that shares its name (see Bubbledogs) – “takes creative gastronomy to a new level” and is “well deserving of its second Michelin star”. Cooking behind a horseshoe-shaped counter with the kitchen at its centre, “the chefs are good company”, and their conversation helps “nail the balance between a very interesting gastronomic journey and a lovely ‘feel-at-home’ atmosphere”. Dishes “celebrating high quality produce are effortlessly executed and perfectly sized”; and “with enough innovation to keep you interested, while not alienating anyone”. “One of the best meals of my life” – “I barely noticed that it lasted three hours!”

This “stylish and serious”, coffee-shop operation with two sites in Fitzrovia is “still one of the best independents in London”, 10 years after pioneering modern Antipodean-style coffee culture in the UK. They serve “brilliant coffee” (naturally), “a nice range of pastries” and “excellent sandwiches”, and have a “good vibe at both locations”. “Only the slightly monastic seating lets things down” – and there’s “not enough” of it!