London Fitzrovia Restaurant Guide

David Moore’s illustrious Fitzrovian “continues to shine” under the tenure of head chef Asimakis Chaniotis, and this “elegant” townhouse remains one of London’s foremost temples of gastronomy. “Letting Chef Chaniotis take you through an evening with a custom tasting menu is second to none” – “he really is a master of meat, but they have great vegetarian and vegan tasting menus too”, and “there’s always something new and exciting” to sample. “An impressive wine list and a great sommelier’s intelligent recommendations” complete the formula. The proportions of the building are not expansive, but tables are “well-spaced” and the overall experience is an “intimate” one.

“Unpretentious but brilliant” Keralan veteran near the Telecom Tower, which offers some of the “best-value curry in London”. It’s “still rough as anything in terms of the building but the food consistently nails it” – including some “proper veggie choices”. Top Tip – “the dosas at Ragam are the best I’ve found in London”.

“Delicious” Scottish game and shorthorn beef, much of it from owner Andy Waugh’s family estate, is showcased at his two venues in Fitzrovia and Liverpool Street. The kitchens “give an interesting modern twist to traditional dishes”.

Grade I listed ‘One Marylebone’ – an Event Space run by One Events which occupies what was formerly Holy Trinity Church, designed by Sir John Soane – is morphing for the time being into more of a conventional restaurant operation (with the events business more on-the-side than previously). The starting point comes in May 2021 with a "Tel Avivian sharing-style outdoor restaurant" from Isreali chef (and ex-NYC's Alenbi) Elior Balbur, set in nine individual greenhouses. On the menu, yellowtail sashimi, chargrilled romanesco steak and Spanish octopus. Other features will include a tented garden lounge, silent cinema, "magical wellness sessions", weekend market, a fitness centre, dance classes, and a gallery. A private members club will follow in the autumn.

Open from March 11 2021 (initially for delivery only), a second, 50-cover, branch of Padam Raj Rai's ishiyaki and sushi restaurant, serving certified Kobe beef, one of only eight restaurants in the UK to do so. Once the restaurant is able to open its doors in May, diners can expect sushi and sashimi alongside maki rolls as well as Hot Stone’s signature Ishiyaki menu – inspired by the ancient Japanese art of cooking on a searing-hot stones; also, 48-hours marinated black cod. The interiors boast traditional wooden panelling, accent tiling and artwork by 18th century Japanese ukiyo-e painter Hokusai Katsushika.

The 25-seat terrace of small this Fitzrovia corner-site – previously Bonnie Gull (RIP) – opened first at this April 2021 newcomer: the first spin-off from the well-known Brighton duo of the same name. The outside is actually a bigger space than the tightly-packed 20-seat interior, open a month or so later. Later the layout may become more like its Brighton stablemates, with more counter seating. The menu – with homemade pasta, small plates and perhaps some emphasis on fish – will also echo its Brighton siblings.

Mathieu Germond, former manager of Pied à Terre, “has worked his considerable magic here”, and has created an “amazing wine list” with “very fair mark-ups” at his “very charming” Fitzrovia yearling (on the former site of Dabbous, RIP) – “go for his suggestions” from the “wide and interesting range, many by the glass”. Ed Dutton’s “delightful” French cuisine is “excellent too”, showing “genuine, old-school skill”, while the “tasteful decoration, with lots of natural light” and “spot-on” service (“personable” – “there when you need them and non-intrusive”) “make it an ideal spot for an informal business lunch, as well as more serious entertaining”.

“An impressive step-up for Ottolenghi, and with all the elements that make his food unique”: Yotam Ottolenghi’s “just brilliant”, veg-centric yearling in Fitzrovia provides “some of the most innovative food in town” – “very clever” and “exciting” sharing-plates with “intense flavours” and “exceptional presentation” – and “even though there’s meat on the menu, it could turn the most ardent carnivore vegetarian!”. With service that’s “exemplary” and “committed” and “a really delightful atmosphere (buzzing but not noisy) it’s all-in-all a memorable experience”.