Fitzrovia, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“One of a kind!”: James Knappett’s “phenomenal” Fitzrovia 20-seater – entered via the hotdog-and-Champagne bar that shares its name (see Bubbledogs) – “takes creative gastronomy to a new level” and is “well deserving of its second Michelin star”. Cooking behind a horseshoe-shaped counter with the kitchen at its centre, “the chefs are good company”, and their conversation helps “nail the balance between a very interesting gastronomic journey and a lovely ‘feel-at-home’ atmosphere”. Dishes “celebrating high quality produce are effortlessly executed and perfectly sized”; and “with enough innovation to keep you interested, while not alienating anyone”. “One of the best meals of my life” – “I barely noticed that it lasted three hours!”

“Not at all what you would expect from the outside!” – “fabulous flavours and clever cooking abound” at Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau’s “highly sophisticated” neighbourhood venture, whose understatedly hip premises occupy a deceptively humble-looking corner-site in Fitzrovia. It also features an “exceptional and interesting wine list by glass: I go online after to see what wines I should be buying at home!”

“Always on form, always interesting” – Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau’s acclaimed Fitzrovian has won a serious culinary reputation over the years, with both an à la carte and tasting menu available lunch and dinner. Fans say its interior is “lovely and modern”, but – despite its “charming” service – the set-up can also seem a little too no-nonsense; the focus is very much on the modern European cuisine – “every dish is a success”.

“So many amazing, creative options for brunch” together with “renowned coffee” (“meticulously sourced and roasted in-house”) have made these “loud”, “brash”, “buzzy” and “quite hip” haunts – particularly the well-known Granary Square branch – key destinations, particularly at the weekend. When busy, however, service can be “hit and miss”; and the food has sometimes been a let-down of late: “it feels like random, trendy ingredients are thrown into dishes so they can charge more for them, rather than for culinary interest or flavour”.