Fitzrovia, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: “One of a kind!”: James Knappett’s “phenomenal” Fitzrovia 20-seater – entered via the hotdog-and-Champagne bar that shares its name (see Bubbledogs) – “takes creative gastronomy to a new level” and is “well deserving of its second Michelin star”. Cooking behind a horseshoe-shaped counter with the kitchen at its centre, “the chefs are good company”, and their conversation helps “nail the balance between a very interesting gastronomic journey and a lovely ‘feel-at-home’ atmosphere”. Dishes “celebrating high quality produce are effortlessly executed and perfectly sized”; and “with enough innovation to keep you interested, while not alienating anyone”. “One of the best meals of my life” – “I barely noticed that it lasted three hours!”

2021 Review: “Distressed in all the right places” – Guy Ritchie and David Beckham have channeled their inner Marie Antoinette at this spring 2019 yearling – a Fitzrovia boozer transformed into their conception of a perfect country pub, and serving beers from Gritchie (Guy’s brewery). “The food here is so much better than it needs to be, with a short, ideal menu” of incongruously-polished small plates; and “with the Sunday menu augmented by a roast”. “Attentive staff and a room full of happy punters” complete the idyll.

2021 Review: “Not at all what you would expect from the outside!” – “fabulous flavours and clever cooking abound” at Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau’s “highly sophisticated” neighbourhood venture, whose understatedly hip premises occupy a deceptively humble-looking corner-site in Fitzrovia. It also features an “exceptional and interesting wine list by glass: I go online after to see what wines I should be buying at home!”

2021 Review: “So many amazing, creative options for brunch” together with “renowned coffee” (“meticulously sourced and roasted in-house”) have made these “loud”, “brash”, “buzzy” and “quite hip” haunts – particularly the well-known Granary Square branch – key destinations, particularly at the weekend. When busy, however, service can be “hit and miss”; and the food has sometimes been a let-down of late: “it feels like random, trendy ingredients are thrown into dishes so they can charge more for them, rather than for culinary interest or flavour”.

2021 Review: “Nice views of Borough Market, if you get a window seat” (“watch out for the trains on the adjoining viaduct that appear to be coming towards you”) add to the considerable appeal of this “light and airy dining space” (which atmospherically incorporates a converted glazed portico, originally part of the Royal Opera House). Specialising in British cuisine – particularly roast meats – most reports say the food is “brilliant”, but there remains a sceptical view that it’s “less-than-good home cooking”. Top Menu Tip – breakfast and brunch have long been a very reliable experience here.

2021 Review: “Always on form, always interesting” – Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau’s acclaimed Fitzrovian has won a serious culinary reputation over the years, with both an à la carte and tasting menu available lunch and dinner. Fans say its interior is “lovely and modern”, but – despite its “charming” service – the set-up can also seem a little too no-nonsense; the focus is very much on the modern European cuisine – “every dish is a success”.

2021 Review: A “superb and quirky afternoon tea” is to be had in the atrium of this boutique hotel north of Oxford Street, with is themed around Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter (the ‘drink me’ potion here, is an invitation to indulge in Champagne!): “good value for a huge amount of attention to detail – love it!”

2021 Review: To be “blown away by the decor” – with its “beautiful high ceiling and sense of spaciousness” – is still the dominant reaction to Jason Atherton’s glam dining room inside Ian Shrager’s Edition hotel, north of Oxford Street. “Wish the food could be at the same level as the interior” is another common theme, however, as is ever-more “arrogant” or “haphazard” service, and there’s a general feeling that, on current form, the place is “serving a transient market with its glorious setting rather than focussing on the product and delivery”.

2021 Review: “Smooth-running and elegant” – the recently-adopted, more modern and svelte style of operation (no tablecloths, and a new central bar for counter-style dining) is suiting this Roux-branded dining room: part of a luxurious five-star hotel, opposite Broadcasting House. Despite the harder-edged look, the ambience remains “delightful” and the cuisine is “first class”, with the option of eating à la carte, or from the six-course tasting menu. “Spot-on service”, in particular, featured in numerous reports this year.

2021 Review: “Handy… especially when other places are shut!” – these “round-the-clock” diners have grown from their SW10 base (which has been around for yonks) to bring their late-night formula of “decent food, a good vibe, friendly service and dependable value” to ever-more ’hoods: recent additions include sites in Euston and Clapham. Only Chelsea, Bloomsbury and Aldgate are actually 24/7.

2021 Review: With its foliage and fairy lights, it’s hard to believe that this hotel terrace (with fully retractable roof) is just two minutes’ walk from grungy Centre Point. Feedback is limited, mostly focusing on its afternoon tea possibilities; “great cocktails too in the adjoining Coral room”.

A Monopoly-inspired restaurant and cocktail bar, on the ground floor of the Monopoly Lifesized immersive experience, owned by Gamepath Entertainment in partnership with Hasbro. If you have never tried the short card-based version, ‘Monopoly Deal’, you can get a quick round in over a propery-themed cocktail (eg Leicester Square red carpet daiquiri). In the 70-cover restaurant, the menu centres on British small plates (mini steak, mash and Yorkshire pudding). Take a Chance or Advance to Go?

Star chef James Knappett has teamed up with his backers JKS (Gymkhana, Hoppers) and publican Dominic Jacobs (The Running Horse, Mayfair) to open their second London pub in the space of six months. The George in Fitzrovia is a beautifully restored grand Victorian Grade II-listed pub with an Italianate corner site frontage; open from late November 2021, with the upstairs dining room opening in February 2022.