Fitzrovia, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“One of a kind!”: James Knappett’s “phenomenal” Fitzrovia 20-seater – entered via the hotdog-and-Champagne bar that shares its name (see Bubbledogs) – “takes creative gastronomy to a new level” and is “well deserving of its second Michelin star”. Cooking behind a horseshoe-shaped counter with the kitchen at its centre, “the chefs are good company”, and their conversation helps “nail the balance between a very interesting gastronomic journey and a lovely ‘feel-at-home’ atmosphere”. Dishes “celebrating high quality produce are effortlessly executed and perfectly sized”; and “with enough innovation to keep you interested, while not alienating anyone”. “One of the best meals of my life” – “I barely noticed that it lasted three hours!”

“Not at all what you would expect from the outside!” – “fabulous flavours and clever cooking abound” at Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau’s “highly sophisticated” neighbourhood venture, whose understatedly hip premises occupy a deceptively humble-looking corner-site in Fitzrovia. It also features an “exceptional and interesting wine list by glass: I go online after to see what wines I should be buying at home!”

“Always on form, always interesting” – Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau’s acclaimed Fitzrovian has won a serious culinary reputation over the years, with both an à la carte and tasting menu available lunch and dinner. Fans say its interior is “lovely and modern”, but – despite its “charming” service – the set-up can also seem a little too no-nonsense; the focus is very much on the modern European cuisine – “every dish is a success”.

“So many amazing, creative options for brunch” together with “renowned coffee” (“meticulously sourced and roasted in-house”) have made these “loud”, “brash”, “buzzy” and “quite hip” haunts – particularly the well-known Granary Square branch – key destinations, particularly at the weekend. When busy, however, service can be “hit and miss”; and the food has sometimes been a let-down of late: “it feels like random, trendy ingredients are thrown into dishes so they can charge more for them, rather than for culinary interest or flavour”.

Taking over the space that recently housed Big Fernand and Kalifornia Kitchen (both RIP) is the second branch of the LA-based eggy chain.