Fitzrovia, Japanese Restaurant Guide

“The original Charlotte Street site is the best”, but, in fairness, all the branches are superb when it comes to Arjun Waney and Rainer Becker’s sleek Japanese-inspired group, where “a visit always feels like a treat: from the slick service to the buzzy atmosphere to the consistently good food”. Sushi and luxurious bites (for example black cod, yellowtail with ponzu and truffle oil), mostly from the robata grill, are the backbones of the menu. The odd report was slightly downbeat of late (“it was less good than normal, but to be fair they had just reopened post-lockdown with new staff”), but the dominant view remains that a trip is “always a lovely, fun experience” (and some regulars tip a stool at the counter as the best perches).

“Delicious steamed bao buns with great fillings” are the star turn at these “loud” and dynamic izakayas (Japanese gastropubs) in Covent Garden and Fitzrovia, backed up by raw fish and hot-stone rice dishes. The newer, bigger Fitzrovia branch, near Oxford Circus, adds a selection of Peruvian-fusion Nikkei plates. They are part of the Bone Daddies group, whose Australian founder, Ross Shonhan, departed in 2020 for pastures new in Dubai.

“Very-high-quality sushi and sashimi” win high esteem for this contemporary Japanese near Oxford Circus, from the Chisou group: “the raw fish is of dream-like quality with intelligent little toppings, while the other dishes on the menu are straight from Japan and effortlessly delicious”. Top Tip – “sit at the bar for superb and informative service from the chefs”.