Chelsea, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Opening in late 2020 – between lockdowns – the “lovely outdoor seating” at this large newcomer set around a Chelsea courtyard quickly came into its own. It’s the debut restaurant for Hugh Stanley, with Olivia Burt (ex-Claridge’s and MasterChef: The Professionals winner) at the stoves, and although some sceptics feel it “doesn’t live up to Liv Burt’s performance on TV”, the majority of reports are of food with “exceptional quality and presentation”.

This lovely 200-year-old pub in a Chelsea backstreet serves a very decent menu (including “child-friendly” options) and is thriving follow a smart refurb under the ownership of Rupert Clevely’s Hippo Inns for the second time – in 2010 he sold it to brewer Youngs as part of Geronimo Inns.

“Always ambient and fun” – Richard Caring’s stretching (twisting?) of the Ivy brand is easy to snipe at but has so far avoided degenerating into farce. For sure, “the food is certainly nothing superior”: fans may claim it’s “more than adequate”, but its overall ratings nowadays are only just the right side of poor. That said, even critics of the cooking often feel that the “lovely” interiors and “welcoming service” provide compensation, and fit the bill for making an occasion of a meal. In the capital, the most mentioned outlets are The Ivy Chelsea Garden (“delightful garden tables and ideal for a noisy girls’ night out”); and The Ivy Kensington Brasserie (“huge fun, loads of buzz” and “always a treat”). The Ivy City Garden and Canary Wharf’s Ivy in the Park follow along in terms of volume of feedback. The newest member of the spin-off family is The Ivy Victoria – a vast space with 300 guests over two floors.

“Tasty sharing plates” – sourced from the family farm and vineyard in Sussex – earn general praise for this “charming” but “cramped” and oddly proportioned faux-rustic dining room in Chelsea. Rabbit was the second of the Gladwin brothers’ ‘farm-to-fork’ small plates London venues, following The Shed in Notting Hill and preceding Nutbourne in Battersea and Sussex in Soho. The fifth, The Fat Badger in Richmond, is due to open in late 2021.

The PR for this newly relaunched King’s Road pub says it’s a ‘much-loved institution’, but we hadn’t heard of it before its mid-2021 relaunch. Still, it’s got a prime Chelsea location; it’s got a fine restored interior (dating from 1838); and it’s got strong backing, with investors led by Dominic Jacobs of The Running Horse Mayfair and Jyotin, Karam & Sunaina Sethi, of JKS Restaurants. The culinary team has splendid form too – Kitchen Table’s James Knappett is collaborating with chef Alex Harper, who has The Ledbury and The Harwood Arms on his CV.

“Full of bright, light flavours” – and from a superbly imaginative, “fresh and varied menu” – Phil Howard’s “splendid” ‘flexitarian’ cuisine continues to delight and inspire at this Chelsea five-year-old, in a chichi backstreet. “No expense accounters here – just real people spending their own money on wonderful food in a really friendly contemporary environment”, and with notably “attentive but unobtrusive” staff. Its ratings blipped slightly this year, and even a diner reporting his best meal of the year felt it was “struggling to find its rhythm, as so many places are post-lockdown”. More typically, though, diners “are thrilled to come back here” – “during the lockdowns, he kept us going with civilized, assemble-at-home meals, but the reopening has made us realize what a master he is. Carry on!!!”.

“The sort of handy local that everyone needs” – with “good food and a particularly interesting wine list” – this modern wine bar chain has expanded with investment from its new owner, Alpine holiday supremo Richard Green, and now has branches in Marylebone, Covent Garden, South Ken and Chelsea. “The wine is what you come for”, “from a list that is both surprising and well understood by the staff” – with a range available by the glass as well as some “fabulous but expensive” ‘Collectors’ bottles.

2021 Review: “Eager staff”, a proper “local pub atmosphere” and a “great menu” of modern British dishes make this a “real discovery” just a stone’s throw from the Thames. The oldest boozer in Chelsea (est. 1708), it has served pints to luminaries including JMW Turner, Dylan Thomas and Bob Marley.

2018 Review: “Salads are a forte” while the fruit tarts can be “sublime” at this airy, rather retro tea room, whose location amidst stunning gardens makes this “a wonderful choice on a sunny day”. But, oh dear, “it’s all a bit disorganised and out of control”, with “very slow queues on busy days”. And “prices are fairly stratospheric, even by Chelsea standards”.

Chef Iain Smith oversees the open grill at this gorgeous Chelsea restaurant, by the river near Albert Bridge (which in recent times has become licensed as a wedding venue). Central to the casual British menu are simple. high-quality surf ’n’ turf grills, but there are also more complex dishes: results are “very good, but a bit pricey”. Don’t miss the cute first floor ‘Ruby’ cocktail bar.

“Classy, with a nice grown-up atmosphere” – this ‘traditional countryside pub and dining room in southwest London’ (the first from the Lunar Pub Company) opened in late 2019, and is successfully living up to its ‘rus-in-urbe’ aspirations. There are lots of warm vibes for its well-realised food and cosy style (even if the prices are those of SW3, not the shires). They are already onto their second project (opening in late 2021) – The Ganymede in SW1 (see also).

The four London farm shop/cafés – in Brompton Cross, Notting Hill, Pimlico and Marylebone – supplied by Lady Bamford’s organic farm offer a reassuring taste of life in the Cotswolds. They serve “pleasant café food, but some of the prices are too much”.

Given the size and prominence of this huge D&D London landmark on Chelsea’s main drag – the conversion of a beautiful 1920s car showroom – it’s astounding how little feedback it inspires. Such as we have is all positive this year, though.

“The sort of handy local that everyone needs” – with “good food and a particularly interesting wine list” – this modern wine bar chain has expanded with investment from its new owner, Alpine holiday supremo Richard Green, and now has branches in Marylebone, Covent Garden, South Ken and Chelsea. “The wine is what you come for”, “from a list that is both surprising and well understood by the staff” – with a range available by the glass as well as some “fabulous but expensive” ‘Collectors’ bottles.

2018 Review: “Top-quality bar dishes” and “efficient young staff” inspire warm vibes for this “bright and cheerful old pub” in South Ken, run for the past year by the duo behind Brompton Food Market.

2019 Review: As a bar, there’s much to recommend this Eurotrash-friendly South Kensington two-year-old (complete with indoor foliage and fairy lights), whose current incarnation is a couple of years old. Since Tom Sellers departed this year, its food ratings have actually started to scrape off rock-bottom – whether it’s that the food has improved, or folks’ high expectations are now just a bit more realistic is unclear.