Epsom, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

Dover sole filleted at the table, “choosing from pick’n’mix from the sweet trolley” and “cocktails in a smoking glass” typify the retro flourishes favoured by the comfy dining room and bar of this traditional Mayfair venue. Feedback isn’t super-plentiful, but all upbeat – “a lovely experience at a reasonable price”.

‘Hoof, feather and field’ is the billing given to the meaty options (which are the top choices) at this traditional dining room – a peaceful space, discreetly hidden away in St James’s and overseen from afar by its ‘food director’, star-chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen of The Stafford’s sister property, Northcote (in Lancs). Practically all reports applaud its all-round professional performance and also its “extensive” cellar. Top Tip – a shout out to the “sumptuous and plentiful” afternoon tea served on the “wonderful comfortable sofas” nearby complete with “free refills for the sandwiches!”

The Scottish roots of Ranald Macdonald (the eldest son of the 24th chief and captain of Clanranald) help explain the approach of this Belgravian stalwart, which – since 1986 – has majored in a menu of Scottish-sourced beef and burgers (plus lobster and a few other dishes); backed up by an ‘old school’ wine list informed by Ranald’s original career in the wine trade; and topped off with a huge range of whiskies. “Live music helps make it fun” and there’s also a cigar terrace. On the downside, although harsh critiques are absent, its overall rating suggests it is fully priced. (For traditional expense-accounters, though, it’s tailor-made.)

This vintage Kensington haunt – named after the pseudonym used by the late Princess Margaret when wining and dining as a commoner – delights its guests with its gorgeous and romantic, rustic decor. Never a foodie fave rave: expect the kind of “delicious” 1970s brasserie-style comfort food which will not distract from a “lovely family meal”, or more intimate tête-à-tête.

“These very big premises were once a prestigious tailor’s” – then more recently a branch of the Browns brasserie chain – and are now “a pub-like restaurant in the middle of Mayfair”. Fans are impressed by “its competent realisation of a standard menu” of British classics. But service can be “somewhat patchy” and food can be “fairly average” as a result.

“Ignore The Ritz around the corner, for afternoon tea this is the place to go” according to fans of this St James’s bastion: “the scones are soft and freshly baked”, “the sandwiches and cakes are divine”, and the “famous Dukes ‘James Bond’ martini is an optional extra”.

Back in the day, this small chamber – in a luxury five-star near the back of Harrods – was a much stiffer and foodie affair. In recent times the style has become laid-back – bare tables and an all-day menu (much of it from a Josper grill). Feedback is a little up-and-down, but even a reporter who was “a little disappointed” ultimately rated the experience as “good all-round”.

Cheneston's, named after the early spelling of Kensington, embodies refined fine dining with a touch of British culinary heritage. Discover a symphony of comfort and creativity orchestrated by Executive Chef Daniel Putz, crafting signature dishes infused with inspiration fro...

“A last redoubt of traditional gastronomy” – London’s oldest restaurant in St James’s (est. 1742, but on this site since the 1980s) maintains its “quiet” and “calm” style, with “understated but excellent service” and “booths that make a superb place to do business”. Classic fish dishes – for example “very good Dover sole off the bone” – are the speciality and “ever-reliable”. A less welcome constant are its “eye-watering prices”: “everything was as I hoped it would be… apart from the bill!”

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