Cheltenham Restaurant Guide

A “delightful, very warm experience” is provided by French owners at this small and “cluttered” spot. “Chef Yves and front-of-house Elisabeth are absolutely charming and thoroughly professional”. “Tasty” Gallic cuisine provides “bistro cooking to a T” from “an ever-changing regional menu” to complete the deal.

“Chef Jon and his front-of-house wife, Helen, consistently provide a very special experience (along with charming waiter and budding sommelier Matthew)” at the Howes’ small (only 24 covers) establishment, which – though less commented on – vies with Le Champignon Sauvage as the town’s top culinary draw. Fans say it’s “better than ever after the long lockdown”, with superb cooking featuring the stunning presentation of local and seasonal ingredients.

“Thankfully now moved to a larger location, so it’s a bit easier to get a booking” – this funky-looking Japanese is no longer a 20-set basement on Regent Street and is now on its way to becoming a national chain with a London sibling opening in 2020 and a new Bristol branch announced in 2021. It wins praise for its “excellent sushi” and “great variety” of other dishes.

Rugby World Cup AND Celebrity MasterChef winner Phil Vickery has opened his own restaurant, with his wife Jules and chef Tom Rains, after a year of running a delivery service, No.3 at Home.

Gareth Fulford's “intimate”, unprepossessing-looking but nonetheless “top-draw” outfit occupies a backstreet location. The five- or seven-course fish-centric tasting menu is “worthy of attention from any serious fine-diner”, with an “outstanding display of tastes and textures”.

In a converted bank and ballroom, this national chain spin-off inarguably has a “great setting, especially the central rotunda, given a racing theme in a nod to Cheltenham Racecourse”. But one reporter summarises the limits of the concept at large – “I don't know why I don’t love it more – service is really good, tables well-spaced, great drink selection too… but oddly the menu seems a bit, well, boring for the location”.

“Always delicious Indian fine-dining” has established Prithvi – Sanskrit for ‘Mother Earth’ – as a “superb choice for a special occasion”. Emphatically “not your standard Indian”, the venture celebrates its tenth anniversary this year, having upgraded to an elegant Pittville Park setting more suited to its culinary achievements a few years ago.

In a prime town-centre location, this luxurious hotel (ultimately owned by Superdry founder Julian Dunkerton) is converted from a trio of Georgian townhouses. On limited feedback in this survey, the themes here are the same as in previous years: “attractive setting and good food… but all at a high price”.

Part of a now eight-strong chain, this youthfully spirited Sri Lankan street-food venture is a laid-back and “homely” (mostly bar stool seating) spot to indulge in some “delicious” sharing plates and wacky “cocktails” – the latter sometimes on fire; best bit – it's “not pricey”, either.

2019 Review: “They’ve got a great menu of American-inspired comfort food” at this bar/bistro in the city-centre “and some real mastery at the grill. Brunches are good too”. Top Menu Tip: “whole deep fried globe artichoke with greek garlic mayo”.

“I continue to applaud and thank David and Helen for creating and nurturing Le Champignon Sauvage!” – “one of the most glorious examples of professional hospitality”. The Everitt-Matthiases’ passion project of thirty years’ standing shows no sign of running out of steam – in fact its ratings only improved during these turbulent times. With David famously ALWAYS “firmly rooted in his kitchen”, and Helen front-of-house, “they all contribute to offering uncompromising levels of skill and excellence in cooking but crown the experience with genuine human warmth”. “New diners should be ready to pace themselves. Not on account of the sensibly judged portions but in face of the assault from the flavours, textures and ideas presented – a delightful assault – with prices that are comparatively low for this high standard”. “Don’t expect a fancy, glitzy restaurant” (the interior is “a bit sparse”). But disappointments were unknown here this year: “we last visited perhaps thirty years ago, a memorable lunch, so it was good to revisit, aware that it could have become a let-down. It was not!”.

“Absolutely fantastic” Keralan scoff generates huge enthusiasm for this Cheltenham original and its Oxford spinoff: “I’d gladly eat their dosas for the rest of my days – in fact I’m salivating just by writing about them!”. In 2018, after trading for six years, Bhoomi “shifted its offering from fine-dining to a mid-range approach”, with BBQ and thali options – “and if anything, the cooking is even better”. “Gorgeous interior, great staff, exceptional food – what more could you want?”.

“A small restaurant that punches well above its weight” – Gus & Kate Ashenford’s former Cotswolds tea room has long delivered “a totally outstanding culinary experience”. “The chef-proprietor is highly talented, serving seasonal food with a perfect balance of flavours, exciting combinations and beautiful presentation. It’s French cuisine brought up to date.”

“Put a French chef in a kitchen with an Indian chef and this is what you get” – an idiosyncratic two-year-old restaurant from Gallic bistronomy advocate Franck Grillet, enriched by his longstanding relationship with collaborator Pramod Tirunagari. “Original? yes. gastronomic? definitely!” – “these guys can really cook” (“when you weren't expecting great, this happens!”).