Here is our weekly round-up of what the national and local restaurant critics are writing about, for the week ending 14 February 2021. England remains in national lockdown, with restaurants and pubs closed (many are operating a takeaway or delivery service): https://www.gov.uk/find-coronavirus-local-restrictions. All of Wales is at alert level 4, with similar restrictions to full […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 16 February 2020. Muse, London SW1 Grace Dent for The Guardian has declared it early this year: “I’ve found my restaurant of the year.” Not all of the critics who have reviewed Muse so far have enjoyed it this […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 15 December 2019. This week’s Christmas article / ‘best of the year’ round-up came from Nicholas Lander in The Financial Times, who gave us his list of favourites (“in 2020, restaurateurs must offer the hospitality many of us crave”). […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 20 October 2019. Pilgrim, Liverpool For Grace Dent of The Guardian, “2019 has been a year of loitering confusedly in food halls, gob ajar, trying to decipher where one eats, sits, orders and pays”. Her latest (but less confused) visit was to Duke […]

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Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 1 September 2019. Kala, Manchester Jay Rayner for The Observer headed to Manchester to try out the latest jewel in Gary Usher’s crown. He wasn’t welcome, of course – when Usher opened his very first restaurant, Sticky Walnut in […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ meals, from the week ending 11 August 2019.  Pilgrim, Liverpool Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times had very little time for the marketing “tripe” surrounding the new Duke Street Market flagship restaurant she visited in Liverpool – one of the many new additions to the UK’s food scene, […]

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EartH Kitchen, London N16 Jay Rayner leaped straight in to describing the food when reviewing EartH (not a typo) Kitchen for The Observer; stopping just long enough to explain that it’s “the restaurant of a major new arts venue in London’s Hackney”. Crispy pig’s cheek salad was “an adult bowl of food designed to make […]

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Röski, Liverpool For The Observer, Jay Rayner  recommends that you “find something worth celebrating” in order to eat at Liverpool’s “note perfect” Roski, from former (joint) MasterChef: The Professionals winner, Anton Piotrowski, who Jay remembers judging in 2012. He tried cooking in rural Devon and Plymouth before settling here – all Jay can say is “Lucky […]

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