Our weekly summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 20 November 2022. ***** The Guardian Grace Dent awarded her “2022 Pudding of the Year award” to the “very charming” The Dog & Gun in Skelton for their “dark chocolate millefeuille” that “featured a thick Valrhona ganache between […]
Our weekly summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 13 November 2022. ***** The Evening Standard “A hugely appealing endeavour.” Jimi Famurewa reviewed St John Marylebone, the “loveably irreverent” recent addition to the St John family (and their “first proper opening in seven years”). “Original founders […]
Our weekly summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 6 November 2022. ***** The Guardian “A very decent, experimental Japanese with a side of jazz.” Grace Dent was in Dalston, at mu, a live music venue where “the food is taken seriously” – to a surprising […]
Our weekly summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 16 October 2022. ***** The Evening Standard “Unquestionably, one of my openings of the year.” Jimi Famurewa visited Speedboat Bar, the “latest Southeast Asian-inspired collaboration between chef-grower Luke Farrell and hospitality juggernaut JKS”. “It is an adult […]
Our weekly summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 9 October 2022. ***** The Observer Jay Rayner was in Deal at the very edge of Kent, where he tasted dishes once only available to the “hottest, most thrilling A-list” patrons of The Chiltern Firehouse, where “tables […]
Our weekly summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 2 October 2022. ***** The Telegraph William Sitwell visited Toklas, which can be found on a nondescript street off The Strand. In the same “behemoth of monolithic greyness” where “the machinations of Soho House are stirring” (it’s […]
Our weekly summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 25 September 2022. ***** The Sunday Times Even the most cynical of critics will be won over by Water Lane, insists Marina O’Loughlin: it’s “just the most serene and beautiful place, billows of flowers framing ornate grade […]
Our weekly summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 11 September 2022. ***** The Sunday Times The Stratford hotel in east London is “a building that Ridley Scott might have rejected for Blade Runner as too comically dystopian”. Inside, on the 7th floor (“suspended between a […]
Our weekly summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 4 September 2022. ***** The Sunday Times Marina O’Loughlin reviewed Bottle & Rye in Brixton, Robin Gill’s “tribute to the seductive newish breed of Parisian wine bars”. The “daily blackboard menu rammed with things I want to […]
Happy Bank Holiday Monday! This is what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 28 August 2022. ***** The Evening Standard “Lately, I have been reacquainting myself with the joys of a bargain restaurant deal.” Taking advantage of the “citywide awakening… that budget-consciousness and brilliance are not mutually exclusive […]
