Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 20 October 2019. Pilgrim, Liverpool For Grace Dent of The Guardian, “2019 has been a year of loitering confusedly in food halls, gob ajar, trying to decipher where one eats, sits, orders and pays”. Her latest (but less confused) visit was to Duke […]

Continue reading

Chef Hélène Darroze has launched a new menu at The Connaught, marking what the hotel has called “a new chapter”. This month, the restaurant reopens its doors “after an extensive, two-month, full refurbishment and modernisation”. The menu has been overhauled by Darroze, who has introduced changing tasting menus. The wine list has also been improved. […]

Continue reading

Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 13 October 2019. Sons + Daughters, London N1 “Sometimes, a truly great, home-made sandwich can be quite a profound thing.” Jimi Famurewa for The Evening Standard isn’t always most thrilled by the “enlivening excursions to hypey food courts, dazzling […]

Continue reading