Rowling back the years

Veteran chef Rowley Leigh is making a comeback at the age of 73 with a three-month pop-up bistro called Chez Rowley, which opens next month in Notting Hill.

He describes the venture as “a bistro with nostalgic dishes and classic technique at its heart designed to be enjoyed family style. The true show stopper, poulet Antiboise: a whole chicken lovingly roasted with anchovies, black olives, garlic, onion, thyme and white wine served with hispi cabbage and pangrattato. But more of that to come…”

Rowley was part of the generation of British chefs that emerged in the latter decades of the last century, working for the Roux brothers before setting up Kensington Place in 1987 and then Le Café Anglais in 2007. The latter closed down in 2014, since when he has done consultancy work for restaurants including Sam’s Riverside in Hammersmith.

A Cambridge graduate, he also carved out a successful career as a food writer, winning a hat trick of Glenfiddich awards for his columns in the Guardian, Sunday Telegraph and Financial Times.

Chez Rowley will run from 13 September to 22 December as a residency in Laylow restaurant and club at 10 Golborne Road, London W10.

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