London Hoxton Restaurant Guide

“Ambience is not key when you just want to stuff your face!” – you “just get a great dirty burger” at these tongue-in-cheek diners, whose signature offering is the ‘Dead Hippie’. Founded 16 years ago from the back of a truck by Scott Collins and Yianni Papoutsis, at the time a technician with the English National Ballet, it now has 15 London outlets and a national delivery operation.

“Deeply flavoured and satisfying” ramen noodles in an “addictive” 20-hour pork bone broth combine with a “noisy hustle and bustle” at this ‘rock ’n’ roll ramen’ chain established in 2012, now with seven venues across central London. Perhaps the “quick and easy” (and noisy) vibe does not translate as satisfyingly from its original Soho site to the suburbs: a branch in leafy Richmond closed down last year, as did a Putney branch before it.

The food of Emilia-Romagna is the inspiration for this Italian duo in Shoreditch and Fitzrovia. They major in pasta, with sliced meats, cheeses and wines from the region as back-up, and all reports say the food is of a good standard.

This 10-year-old group with six sites offers a “good-value and tasty” take on the Middle Eastern kebab, served with a “modern twist” alongside “noteworthy cocktails”. “A seat at the counter is fun” at the original Kingly Court branch in Carnaby Street, which has a ‘fine dining’ option downstairs, Kebab Queen (see also).

“What is better than an amazing breakfast?…” and you are certainly spoilt for choice all day long at this greasy-spoon-esque chain, which is celebrating its 20th year in 2024 with the addition of a St Pancras branch to its empire of 16 caffs (11 of them in the capital) and 3 pubs.

“For a large chain, they still do pretty much unbeatable Mexican fusion fare”, say fans of these “busy and atmospheric” street-food cafés, now with 11 London branches and three others around the UK. That said, there are also some niggles in feedback; and the sentiment is widespread that – though “still enjoyable” – the food can seem “a little mass-produced”. Even so, practically all diners still consider them “dependable for a quick, cheap ’n’ cheerful bite”. Top Tip – the new, 150-cover Paddington branch is their first opening in six years and puts a focus on sustainability and a menu including some larger sharing plates (e.g. grilled Achiote Seabass, Lamb Barbacoa and Chimichurri Cauliflower).

Daniel Willis, Isaac McHale & Johnny Smith helped establish the East End as a credible culinary destination, with the launch over a decade ago of this trailblazing venue (est. 2013) in Shoreditch Town Hall. “It is one of those tasting menu restaurants” – a no-frills (fairly uneventful) chamber whose cuisine on launch seemed dazzlingly weird and wonderful, and which is nowadays a key pillar of London’s foodie hall-of-fame, with two Michelin stars and – until this year – the UK’s leading position on the World’s 50 best ranking. However, the verdict of our annual diners’ poll has for some years been more cautious than the general critical consensus, and this uneven pattern continues this year. The main event is an eight-course tasting menu for £195 (with wine pairing at £175), which is hailed as “faultlessly executed” in upbeat feedback but seen in sceptical commentary as merely tolerable-to-disappointing. But most striking this year was a general lack of interest full stop: feedback was notably scant compared with the venue’s stratospheric media profile. Perhaps this good-but-no-longer-great view is beginning to become more widely held? The venue lost its World’s 50 Best ranking this year (slipping to 80th position).

“Fantastic pizza that’s good value” continues to win praise for Alan & Mark Wogan’s (the sons of the late Sir Terry) three-strong chain in Neal’s Yard (the original), Marylebone and the City. The 20-inch pizzas are enough to feed 2-3 people and flavours can be split 50/50.

“Delicious tiny plates of interesting and seasonal Italian dishes” plus low-intervention wines delight diners at Jon Lawson’s “casual and vibey small Shoreditch place”, which – post Covid – is re-establishing its very impressive all-round ratings. “It’s just a really great place to go: grab a seat at the kitchen bar and watch lovely food being expertly prepared”.

“In Little Vietnam in Shoreditch”, this brisk and busting canteen is an “institution” and, if nothing else, “scores well in its hygiene score by the standards of the area!” Service “if a little chaotic, is friendly” and its “home-style cooking, while not amazingly delicate, has plenty of choice, including very tasty pho”.

“Still a legendary destination with consistently excellent meats, sides, drinks all far cheaper than at Hawksmoor” – these “dark and noisy” operations are “a go-to destination when you want some serious meat (perhaps more chophouse than steak house), with many good options that don’t dent the wallet”; and widely seen as “a better bet than other big high-end steak chains”. “They pack the punters in, so a good tip is to request a booth”. “Steaks are cooked just right. Staff are happy and helpful. Why didn’t I go here years ago?”. Top Menu Tips – “Sunday lunch is legendary”. And “try the ‘All-In’ for a variety of chops on excellent grilled flatbreads, and a couple of tasty sides between two. Also a (poorly promoted) option to BYO for £10 corkage at any time”.

Just off Great Eastern Street, this characterful boozer has been a waxing and waning star of the Shoreditch culinary scene since the get-go; with a mezzanine dining room – up a spiral staircase from the main bar area – that’s been a springboard for numerous well-known chefs. Though only inspiring middling praise in recent times, in August 2024, one of only two female winners of MasterChef: The Professionals – Nikita Pathakji – arrived at the stoves, promising an uptick in performance, with dishes such as cured sea bream with coal-smoked aubergine, harissa and preserved lemon.

This “buzzy pub” near the Regent’s canal in Islington has a “brilliant” culinary reputation since it relaunched two years ago. “They take great care to offer seasonal, fresh food cooked with real imagination and flair, but always reassuringly familiar” (“so good, I actually laughed!”). “Well-chosen wines”, a “superb Sunday lunch”, “no-frills good service” and a “dog-friendly approach, too” complete the deal.

“Food, vibes and service are impeccable… the price is ludicrous” – situation normal then at this Shoreditch-fringe boutique hotel, whose surprisingly big subterranean Nikkei restaurant looks onto a large sunken garden. With the brand’s signature sensational sushi and sashimi, plus more substantial fish and fusion dishes, it is finally emerging as some reporters’ “favourite Nobu” after a slow start, which was hit by the pandemic and subsequent WFH.

“Irish hospitality + imaginative food cooked over wood fire = success”, according to all feedback on Richard Corrigan’s stylish five-year-old venue by Silicon roundabout, where the open kitchen dominated by a fiery grill leads onto a stylish modern interior. Though the food is strongly rooted in the British Isles, it’s very much a 21st-century menu: “the small plates allow for a range of excellent tasty dishes” (e.g. Sugar Pit Pork, Wood-fired Lobster, Sea Bass Ceviche). The location near Old Street tube perhaps feels a bit peripheral, but “once inside there’s an energetic atmosphere in what’s a big space. Downstairs in Gibney’s Bar is even busier and the noise level even greater”.

“More hit ’n’ miss than they used to be, but still a go-to chain” – the Elliot brothers’ successful group is heading towards 20 branches in the capital, but “still producing quality dishes despite becoming quite a brand”: “lovely scorched, pillowy-based pizzas with plenty of power in the ingredients” and “reasonably priced for the quality!” Latest to launch, in June 2024, was a branch by Euston.

“Slightly mad” but irresistible – “I’ve not known anyone leave unhappy”, squeal fans of Paris-based Big Mamma Group’s original London site, which is a “fun and partyish” slice of OTT, retro Italian pastiche on a Shoreditch corner-site filled with plants and nostalgic Amalfi-coast-inspired bric-a-brac. The rich food from a large, traditional Italian menu – with plenty of pizza and pasta alongside grills and salads – isn’t at all ‘foodie’ but is certainly filling and good value.

“A limited-choice menu, but one that seems to work” underpins the success of this “no-frills” steakhouse chain created by Charlie Carroll in 2012 and now with just under a dozen London branches (with 2024 seeing its arrival in Victoria and just off Hammersmith Broadway). “You know just what you are going to get” and “the quality/value factor makes it a sound bet”: “decent steaks and a few rustic sides”; and “don’t forget the lovely (free) salted caramel ice cream on the way out!”. “Not a place to linger”, but “it never disappoints”.

“A wonderful curation of British produce and informative service” – Joe Laker’s 16-seat two-year-old in Smithfield offers “some of the best counter dining in London” according to its small but passionate fan club. In the nondescript streets north of Old Street roundabout, an old corner pub has been transformed with a big open kitchen behind a marble counter. “Faultless course after course are all served with the care and attention they deserve, with thoughtful wine pairings that further elevate the experience” (the nine-course tasting menu is currently £120 per person). More than one reporter tips it as “a restaurant to watch” that’s “heading for a Michelin star”.