Leith Restaurant Guide

“Flavours just sing and they are so good with textures and deft seasoning” at Roberta Hall-McCarron’s renowned foodie hotspot – “a small dining room with a laid-back atmosphere”. Numerous best meals of the year are reported here from either a three-course menu for £69 per person, or a five-course version for £89 per person. All of the good number of reports we receive from its dedicated fan club say it’s plain “terrific”.

Tom & Michaela Kitchin’s Leith HQ occupies a converted warehouse and has shown amazing longevity since it opened in 2006 as one of the Scottish capital’s most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll. There are gripes here in the feedback we receive, almost entirely to do with those who feel the experience is “good but overpriced”. On balance, though, positivity is still the order of the day and the vast majority of reports acclaim it as somewhere that “never disappoints, with always something really interesting and fabulous on the menu”. Choose from either a three-course à la carte (for £125 per person); or there is a tasting option (at £155 per person) – “the theatre of the service is extraordinary, with front of house staff who are attentive but not overly so, carefully choreographing the emergence of food from the kitchen. Behind the glass screen, the chefs and kitchen staff beaver away in an organised and calm manner and the ambience is lovely. Yes, it was on the expensive side, but as a theatrical gastronomic experience it was worth every penny… it‘s just a shame that we live nearly 500 miles away”.

This “absolute stalwart”, in a 17th-century watchtower by the Water of Leith, delivers “great fresh fish, beautifully cooked in a kitchen the size of a 50p piece” – “lovely staff, all very hectic, but it just works”. The flagship of a small group established more than 20 years ago, some reporters find it “slightly more relaxed than the city branch”. Top Menu Tip – “the prawn cocktail is to die for”.

It’s “worth a ride on the tram” (to the terminus of the Edinburgh line, which is a short walk away) to get to this dockside outfit in a Victorian building, which was launched in 2018 by fancy seafood haunt Ondine, of the nearby capital, and Welch Fishmongers, who supply it. It’s a “very busy” place with “limited tables” in the tiled dining room and on the outdoor terrace: one diner for whom “the takeaway was the only possibility” reports that “it was worth the long queue” for the “excellent fish and chips” (as against the fancier fare in the dining room) even in the winter chill.

“It’s a bit out of the way down Leith Walk” and “you have to go into the shop to find it”, but it’s “worth a detour” to discover the café behind this “Edinburgh legend” – a deli and wine merchant that’s been going strong since 1934, and where diners profit from a truly miniscule (£6) corkage fee on any of the fine wines available in the store. Also on the menu, “great coffee (as you‘d expect) and a wide variety of Italian dolce and snacks” (“if the pizza is on at lunchtime, have it – you won’t regret it”).

With two cousins in London – not to mention others in Vegas, Singapore and throughout the Gulf states – this long-trailed newcomer finally debuted on the 10th floor of the W Hotel after years of waiting. It offers a similarly glossy combination of striking metropolitan decor (bars, oudoor terraces, indoor trees) and luxurious Latino/Japanese bites (tacos, tempura, sushi), and although it has yet to inspire any feedback in our annual diners’ poll it inspired a thumbs-up from The Scotsman’s Rosalind Erskine in her December 2023 review: “undoubtedly a stylish place to be seen but unlike some venues like this, the food actually stands up to scrutiny”.

“The same quality of steaks that you always get with Hawksmoor, in a fabulous space in a great building” – feedback that suggests no dip in quality for this outpost of the well-known steakhouse chain (which most recently opened in Chicago). As with its London siblings, though, its middling ratings are a result of high prices and a slight sense of “hype”. Also “it’s a very big and striking room, but can easily feel a bit empty”.

“You’d have to travel a long way to find another dining room as grand” as this sumptuous cupola-topped venue – the eye-catching old Bank of Scotland above Waverley station – which is now part of the first city hotel spin-off from the storied Perthshire hotel (replete with “beautiful” bedrooms, rooftop bar and members’ club). Some 98 years younger than that grand icon, which celebrated its centenary in 2024, the all-day restaurant, which turns out upscale brasserie fare from sharing dishes to a decadent dessert trolley, failed this year to elicit huge amounts of feedback: brunch, previously a highlight, is now once-monthly only, while the other victuals can seem “good but not exciting”, thus “not up to the elevated surroundings”.

“Great fun if you don’t mind queuing on the pavement… and the food is great” – this northern outpost of London’s famous Indian chain on St Andrew’s Square was the first outside the capital (it opened in 2016). Similarly based on the Parsi cafés of Mumbai, it has seemed a fraction less all-conquering, though, as south of the border: feedback is nearly all positive, but not in as huge a volume as one might expect. Top Tip – “I despise their evening no-bookings policy. I will never eat there for dinner. But I love their bacon naans so much, and you can book for breakfast. So I go for breakfast and have a fantastic time!”

This “small” Stockbridge basement restaurant has become one of the city’s most beloved fine- diners, with chef-patron Paul Gunning (who learnt his trade alongside MPW, amongst others) offering “wonderful and imaginative dishes” that come in “generous portions” to boot. Best of all, for cooking of this pedigree it’s all “great value”, whether you opt for the two- or three-course set lunch, or the five- or seven-course tasting menu at night. In early 2024, the Purslane team re-opened the former Aurora restaurant on Great Junction Street, in Leith, just months after it closed; now rebaptised Dùthchas, it’s another relaxed fine-dining spot that focuses on tasting menus.

“For a large chain, they still do pretty much unbeatable Mexican fusion fare”, say fans of these “busy and atmospheric” street-food cafés, now with 11 London branches and three others around the UK. That said, there are also some niggles in feedback; and the sentiment is widespread that – though “still enjoyable” – the food can seem “a little mass-produced”. Even so, practically all diners still consider them “dependable for a quick, cheap ’n’ cheerful bite”. Top Tip – the new, 150-cover Paddington branch is their first opening in six years and puts a focus on sustainability and a menu including some larger sharing plates (e.g. grilled Achiote Seabass, Lamb Barbacoa and Chimichurri Cauliflower).

What does it say about the culinary tastes of the British middle classes that this spin-off chain, with about 40 locations based on the original Theatreland icon, has been such a rip-roaring success? True, there’s some “great people-watching” at the “always buzzing” Chelsea Garden venue (which has one of SW3’s best gardens). And, without doubt, those branches in Kensington, Tower Bridge and Kingston also particularly stand out amongst the rest for their “super atmosphere”. In general though, the knock-off look of their locations “isn’t a patch on the original on West Street, yet pretends to be exactly the same”. And when it comes to their brasserie dishes: although its many followers tout them as “acceptable, albeit nothing special”, their rating-average identifies them as “underwhelming tick-box fare”; all offered by service that’s very “indifferent”. And yet they are “always busy”! In June 2024, it was announced that billionaire Richard Caring had successfully sold his entire Ivy restaurants stake. Now that he is laughing all the way to the bank, it will be interesting to see if ratings reverse, continue or deepen their southward trend.

“A six-course themed taster menu, that changes every six weeks!” is the “playful idea” at Nico Simeone’s national chain, whose two London branches (in Fitzrovia and Canary Wharf) are “great for special occasions, but also affordable for a regular monthly meal out to experience the different cuisines”. At such keen prices, it’s unreasonable to expect perfection and most diners acknowledge this: it’s “a clever, and obviously very popular, concept, albeit one where the experience can seem a bit manufactured”; “although it doesn’t always live up to expectations, when you get the right menu everything clicks into place”; so while inevitably it’s “hit and miss, it’s also great value”, and “for a fun evening it does the job well”.

“A real treat. A top experience” – “it’s afternoon tea in a posh hotel... but they know what they’re doing and do it very, very well” in the elegant glass-domed lounge of this Edinburgh landmark: “savoury food and patisserie both excel, in a space that is so beautiful they‘d be full even if the food was dross!” all served by “brilliant staff who provide great theatre: the tea pouring is something else!”. This year’s biggest complaint? “A huge array of delicious food… but way too much for me!”

“Tables are close together” (and “the noise is heightened by the tiled floor”) at this popular venue – a stalwart of the New Town for over 20 years now. All reports, though, suggest it’s “worth it for the food”, using Scottish produce to create classic Thai dishes.