The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy revisisted a “marvellous little restaurant” on Leith Walk from chef Roberta Hall-McCarron and front of house Shaun McCarron, the Edinburgh powerhouse couple behind The Little Chartroom and Ardfern, for an update now that the tasting menu has gone and the tiny kitchen and dining room have been rejigged.
It still possesses the “ineffably cool-independent-restaurant-in-the-big-city atmosphere the Hall-McCarrons seem to instantly cook up in any space they take over. These two are incapable of making a bad restaurant.”
Nor is it possible to make a bad choice on the menu, Chitra declared after she and her dining companion worked their way through a “fiendishly clever” cashew ‘faux gras’ tartines, “flawless” starters of rump cap carpaccio and cured trout, and mains of “pearlescent” coley on fondant potato win a velveteen cider butter sauce and a “blushing and outrageously soft” duck breast.
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2026-08-16
