Southbank, Fusion Restaurant Guide

“Handy for the South Bank arts venues” – chef-patron Peter Lloyd took over the much-loved RSJ eight years ago with enough success to add another south Thames site near Tower Bridge to the brand (although a third site, in Islington, lasted just months in late 2023). “Soft shell crab, Roti canai, Singapore chilli lobster; Lamb Shank Massaman” have all been enjoyed – if there’s a gripe, it’s that the food is “good, but nothing exceptional” (“we enjoyed it, but my friend who is Singaporean by origin was disappointed that the menu was not more authentic”). Top Tip – “the pre-theatre menu of 3 courses for under £30 is excellent value”.

“Quite unique!” – Jeremy Chan and Iré Hassan-Odukale have won renown (including two Michelin stars and the 2nd highest score in the UK on World’s 50 best 2024) for their transformation of West African culinary traditions into an “incredible” and groundbreaking haute-fusion mashup; and a meal at this copper-shaded and minimalist venue (relocated a couple of years ago from St James’s) is acclaimed in a majority of reports as an “exceptional” and “creative” all-round experience. Even fans, however, often note that it’s also become a “very, very expensive” one, while for a significant minority it’s a “disappointing” or even “joyless” one too. Chief concerns are cooking that can seem “too complicated” or “unmemorable (and I was longing to try it!)”; “robotic” staff “not engaging with customers and barely explaining dishes” is another repeat complaint.

“Horribly overpriced but love the atmosphere” – to cut to the chase, that’s the key take-away on this duo of Japanese/South American fusion outfits: part of a slick US-chain originating in NYC 25 years ago, and now with branches from Singapore to Las Vegas, via the Middle East. The WC2 branch sits on top of Covent Garden with exceptional views over to the Royal Opera House, although (for our money) it’s the City original – up fast lifts on the 38th floor of the Heron Tower with fancy cocktail lounges and stunning views – that really stands out. The food – an eclectic Nikkei mashup incorporating tempura, crispy taquitos, samba rolls, sushi, robata dishes and large plates – is delicious but ultimately “nothing to write home about” when you consider the gargantuan cost.

Noisy izakayas in Fitzrovia and Covent Garden from the Bone Daddies group, “serving a good range from the stickier and more crowd-pleasing end of Japanese cuisine”, along with “tasty pan-Asian small plates including their signature bao buns”. Top Menu Tips – “great yakitori, lovely beef-fat chips”.

“Absolutely fantastic flavours” are on the “great tasting menu” at Malaysia-born and Sydney-raised, Ramuel Scully’s idiosyncratic venue in St James’s Market, whose cuisine is flavoured by unusual ferments – some of them as much as a year old. It no longer generates the massive excitement of its early days, but still inspires lots of supportive feedback.

“Amazing fine dining with Korean flavours running through each dish creates a real joy for the taste buds” at Woongchul Park & Bomee Ki’s passion project in a street in the shadow of The Shard. For foodies, it’s a must-visit, with a “restrained, unshowy and a pleasing menu” mixing classic French culinary techniques with inspirations from their home country; and all “at a reasonable price for this level of cooking and quality of ingredients”. Quality wines come from Keeling Andrew (associated with Noble Rot) although “more cheaper labels might encourage the topers amongst us to a bigger spend”. Service is “amazing”; and the neutral, 28-cover space is super-tasteful (but maybe not one for thrill seekers).

A particularly solid choice for brunch – this “buzzy” Kiwi-run chain (with seven branches) fits the bill well, with “interesting small plates” of pan-global fusion food and an emphasis on notably good coffee (which they roast in-house). On the downside, the food is often “passable and no more” and their “lively” interiors (Granary Square in particular) can become “hopelessly crowded”, giving rise to incidents of “slapdash service”. Still, they’re “fun” and “reasonably priced”. (See also Vardo).

A ‘no-borders kitchen’ philosophy informs the “funky mixture of Middle Eastern, Indian and African food” at chef and food-writer Ravinder Bhogul’s “busy and buzzing” Marylebone venue: it serves “combinations of ingredients you might think won’t work but really do”, and these “are matched by the equally unusual spice cocktails”. Top Tip – “the set lunch is a steal and the caramelised aubergine is amazing”.

Charcuterie, sharing plates and dishes from the Josper grill provide a “delicious Italian/ Spanish mix” at this “lovely and buzzy” small outfit: worth discovering in a backstreet just around the corner from St Mary’s Church, Marylebone.

This “longstanding Clapham local fave” – run by three “Nobu refugee” chefs – “keeps knocking out very good-to-exceptional sushi and sashimi” after almost 25 years (although some of the cooked dishes are less successful). “Service is local, friendly and charming but can seem overrun”, and the “ambience is Nobu-meets-nightclub”.

“Exquisite…”, “Superbly inventive…” – few restaurants attract such consistently superlative feedback and ratings as Rafael Cagali’s “worthy successor to Viajante and The Typing Room” in Bethnal Green’s former town hall. Influenced by his Brazilian heritage, the dishes are “fantastic and unique” with “superb ingredients and precise execution” running through the entire, three-hour tasting menu (which is £245 per person; £180 per person at lunch). “Knowledgeable and friendly staff and the lovely space combine to create an exceptional culinary experience”. The only gripe is the obvious one – it’s mightily pricey. On practically all accounts, though, it’s “worth it” and “seems to get better every time”.

“A wide variety of techniques” is behind food of “scrumptious flavour” and “rare visual beauty” at this “top-class experience”: a stylish neighbourhood haunt with large, leafy pavement terrace discovered “off the beaten track” in Dalston. The cooking is usually described as ‘fusion’, which in effect means broadly Italian dishes presented Japanese kaiseki-style, with multiple small courses chosen each day by the chef, in response to the best available produce.

“Excellent, innovative and delicious food” – a surprising Mexican/Japanese fusion dubbed ‘Baja-Nihon cuisine’ by its founder, restaurant entrepreneur Markus Thesleff – has made quite an impact at this “amazing” Notting Hill three-year-old (on the former site of famous chippy Geale’s, RIP), leading to the launch last year of a City branch with a huge rooftop terrace next to Liverpool Street station. Top Tip – “everything in this restaurant is gluten-free and suitable for coeliacs” (it’s also nut- and celery-free).

“Exciting, innovative, interesting Asian-fusion dishes at great value prices” mean you should keep an eye out for this easily-missed venue amidst busy Clapton high street. The food is primarily Chinese, but flavour and fun, not foodie purity, is first priority (Sichuan Negronis anyone?). It’s not super-plush, but fans say “the ambience has improved recently with a refurb”.

“Excellent, innovative and delicious food” – a surprising Mexican/Japanese fusion dubbed ‘Baja-Nihon cuisine’ by its founder, restaurant entrepreneur Markus Thesleff – has made quite an impact at this “amazing” Notting Hill three-year-old (on the former site of famous chippy Geale’s, RIP), leading to the launch last year of a City branch with a huge rooftop terrace next to Liverpool Street station. Top Tip – “everything in this restaurant is gluten-free and suitable for coeliacs” (it’s also nut- and celery-free).

“A wonderful experience, moving from room to room with service in the bar… then restaurant… and even the kitchen!” – This I’m-funky-and-I-know-it Shoreditch venue (which started out as Mãos under Nuno Mendes) is part of the ‘Blue Mountain School’, whose website reads like a parody of East London now-ness (it is “an environment dedicated to nurturing engagements and interactions between diverse practices”, apparently). Fortunately reports continue to suggest that the intimate atmosphere avoids pretension; and that there’s also plenty of real substance to the exceptional cuisine from a ten-course omakase-style offering, for which it’s suggested you allow three hours. For most of the meal, you choose between the ‘Dining Room’ and the ‘Hearth Room’: in the latter, if you are fewer than four in your party seating may be communal. BREAKING NEWS – in August 2024, well known chef Theo Clench moved on to be replaced by Taz Sarhane, who had been with the team since January. No great changes have been headlined, and we’ve maintained its rating.

Chef Rafael Cagali’s “casual option” – next door to his high-flying Da Terra in the old Bethnal Green Town Hall – “has rather flown under the radar” since opening two years ago; but it’s a “most underrated restaurant”, whose “fabulous” small plates reflect the founder’s Italian-Brazilian background. There’s also “great music”: it takes its name from bossa nova singer Elis Regina. Top Menu Tip – “Palm Heart and Scamorza pastel – absolute heaven!”