London Holland Park Restaurant Guide

“The kitchen really is doing something different, sending out delicious and original dishes with a mixed Scandinavian and Japanese/Korean heritage” at this “under-the-radar restaurant, hidden away beneath a shop” in Holland Park. All reports suggest it’s “definitely worth a visit”, but there are caveats: service can be “indifferent” and even fans can find the prices over-egged.

“There’s not a better setting in London for romance” than this 17th-century former ballroom inside Holland Park: “a walk to the restaurant through the greenery is a joy, the space itself is elegant and light; and in the summer, the terrace offers al fresco dining overlooking the formal gardens”. Some reports still talk of the “pretty ordinary” modern British food and “adequate” service that’s often dogged the place, but overall feedback was more positive this year: “its lean years of so-so food and service are behind it” – “it’s a shame more people don’t go”.

“Understated Holland Park local” worth discovering on account of its “consistently delicious and always changing British food” – an “inventive menu providing enough diversity to make it a place to return to on a regular basis”. It’s “cosy” too, with “charming, quirky service” and an “excellent, interesting and different wine list”; in short, a “perfect neighbourhood bistro”.

“Lovely… if a little pricey” – this “smart casual” (and business-friendly) Holland Park Italian has survived over a good number of years thanks to its “interesting” Sardinian dishes and an overall feeling of quality: “it doesn’t outscore others on specifics, but the whole package works well – professional but not sleek, good but not gastronomic – a favourite”.

At last! Since 2015 this Holland Park icon of louche 1970s living – an intriguing subterranean labyrinth of differently-styled chambers – has promised that it will reopen, and it finally looks set to happen in September 2019, in time for its 50th year in business. Its updated looks are unknown as yet, but they have recruited a good chef in the form of Shay Cooper, who held a Michelin star at his previous gig, The Goring.