Holland Park, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Understated Holland Park local” worth discovering on account of its “consistently delicious and always changing British food” – an “inventive menu providing enough diversity to make it a place to return to on a regular basis”. It’s “cosy” too, with “charming, quirky service” and an “excellent, interesting and different wine list”; in short, a “perfect neighbourhood bistro”.

At last! Since 2015 this Holland Park icon of louche 1970s living – an intriguing subterranean labyrinth of differently-styled chambers – has promised that it will reopen, and it finally looks set to happen in September 2019, in time for its 50th year in business. Its updated looks are unknown as yet, but they have recruited a good chef in the form of Shay Cooper, who held a Michelin star at his previous gig, The Goring.