Covent Garden, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

“Our favourite seafood place in central London”, chorus the many fans of this appropriately named outfit “in the touristic area of Covent Garden” – “I love this place for the location, the energy and the super-fresh dishes” (“there’s no greater fun than wrestling with a crab” here or the oysters and lobster!). “Attentive staff” and a “lively, unpretentious atmosphere” are part of the appeal, and the “quick service helps if you’re on the way to the theatre”. Any negatives? It “may be a bit cramped”, with an “interior that’s a bit stark for some”.

“You know that you’ll get a decent meal” at these “unpretentious” ‘Fishmongers & Restaurants’ in Covent Garden, Marylebone and off Piccadilly, where you can buy retail from the wet counter or proceed to eat in at the adjoining dining room. “A wide variety of fish and seafood can be cooked to your specification” and “it’s the perfect place for some nice, simple cooking”. Any drawbacks? The food is “good but rather unimaginative”; “ambience is a little lacking; and the service level is not as good as could be”.

“Counter seats are the best” at the Hart Bros’ “magical slice of Spain” – a “joyful” and thriving homage to Barcelona’s famous Cal Pep, which since its 2007 launch has steadily appeared near the top of our annual diners’ poll as one of London’s most popular restaurant groups. Its branches have multiplied, but – to a miraculous extent – the formula has stayed the same. “At the bar, it’s fun to watch the talented staff who were clearly enjoying their jobs, meticulously preparing the outstanding dishes”: “brilliant small plates, with plenty of choice” and “packed with authentic flavours” (“particularly strong on fish and seafood”); plus “an excellent range of sherries” and wines. But, while it’s maintained “impressive consistency over many years”, it can feel “like a bar experience at restaurant prices” nowadays, and its ratings drifted south of their usual peaks this year. There’s also the odd tale of caution in reports: “I’ve been almost every year since it opened. It’s still great fun and pretty good, but the last three visits have fallen below the super-high quality of the past”. Top Menu Tips – “love the Croquetes; the Cos salad with anchovy and crispy pancetta; and perfectly unctuous Tortilla”.

“Counter seats are the best” at the Hart Bros’ “magical slice of Spain” – a “joyful” and thriving homage to Barcelona’s famous Cal Pep, which since its 2007 launch has steadily appeared near the top of our annual diners’ poll as one of London’s most popular restaurant groups. Its branches have multiplied, but – to a miraculous extent – the formula has stayed the same. “At the bar, it’s fun to watch the talented staff who were clearly enjoying their jobs, meticulously preparing the outstanding dishes”: “brilliant small plates, with plenty of choice” and “packed with authentic flavours” (“particularly strong on fish and seafood”); plus “an excellent range of sherries” and wines. But, while it’s maintained “impressive consistency over many years”, it can feel “like a bar experience at restaurant prices” nowadays, and its ratings drifted south of their usual peaks this year. There’s also the odd tale of caution in reports: “I’ve been almost every year since it opened. It’s still great fun and pretty good, but the last three visits have fallen below the super-high quality of the past”. Top Menu Tips – “love the Croquetes; the Cos salad with anchovy and crispy pancetta; and perfectly unctuous Tortilla”.

Three years on from a relaunch under its original name by Gordon Ramsay (it was formerly Kaspar’s), this elegant chamber with Thames views from the window tables has yet to regain the lustre it enjoyed before the hotel relaunched in the noughties. It’s not devoid of fans, but too often its cooking (of mainly fish and seafood) is critiqued for being “overpriced (and in some cases overcooked or over-sauced)”. Sceptics say Big Sweary’s name above the door is a saving grace – “if it wasn’t a Ramsay restaurant they’d struggle”. Top Tip – a good choice for a posh brek.

“I was blown away by the quality of the fish on my first visit” – this “tiny tiled fish restaurant” in Covent Garden “punches well above its weight” and is one of the most popular bets in our annual diners’ poll in the area. It also boasts a “great wine list” (it shares ownership with nearby wine bar 10 Cases). Despite all its virtues, though, it’s “very tight for space” – “some tables are bar tops with stools, although there are a few tables with chairs/banquettes (and on the pavement if it‘s not too cold)”.

“A wonderful oasis of civilisation in the middle of tatty, tourist London” – Richard Caring’s “confident”, “old-school” Theatreland “icon” (est. 1896) hides behind intriguing etched-glass windows in an unpromising alleyway between St Martin’s Lane and the Charing Cross Road. A “seafood lovers’ mecca”: it’s yet again voted as London’s No. 1 destination for fish in our survey, and also – for the umpteenth year – the most commented-on restaurant in our annual diners’ poll. “If you want gourmet preparations, you need to go elsewhere” – the straightforward cooking includes “no bells and whistles” and the focus is on “really well-executed traditional dishes” (such as their celebrated fish pie; “excellent Dover Sole off the bone”; or “perfectly pan-fried King scallops”). It occupies a series of “old world, cosy, crowded dining rooms with photos of celebrity guests adorning the wood-panelled walls” and it’s “always a civilised pleasure to eat here”. “Patchy service” has sometimes been a concern post-Covid, but its rating rebounded noticeably this year and, all said, it’s judged as being “first-class”.

“Amazing grass-fed” USDA prime steaks (hand-cut and dry-aged for 28 days) are the USP of this NYC-based brand, whose London outpost has a Manhattan-esque location, on the ground floor of the landmark Adelphi Building, just off the Strand. No-one doubts the quality of the offering, and the odd reporter had their best meal of the year here (“amazing!”). But the level of value is a perennial issue and even a fan who rated their visit as “outstanding” noted: “the price is high… everyone seems to be either on holiday or on expenses!”